our driver door stopped unlocking with the wireless key or the door pad. I went to replace the actuator and plugged in a new one, BUT the new one did not work. could the switch be bad? The locked stopped working recently AFTER a detail was done to the car. 1999 ford explorer
It could be the wiring, but more likely it is the Driver’s Door Module.
(I assume that the passenger doors unlock, even from the switch on the driver’s door.)
all the other doors work fine, even from the switch on the driver’s door.
any idea where to get this part?
Got to be the wiring (wires or connectors) or the DDM. Don’t forget to check both sides of the actuator. I am willing to bet that the DDM controls ground path and the actuator is always hot on the other side. Check the wiring first as the DDM is probably a dealer or salvage yard item. New it is probably costly. Salvage might not be very reliable.
I’ve got a 1997 Explorer with similar problem. In my case, sometimes the door unlocks, and sometimes it the lock only goes halfway up. When this happens, I repeatedly press the remote unlock button and normally, after 3-6 tries, it opens. So far, I’ve learned to live with it, but if you find a relatively inexpensive solution, I’d love to hear about it.
That’s a different problem. Your problem is that the lock actuator is sticking. You can fix it by taking it apart and cleaning and lubricating it. The OP has already tried a new actuator. The OP has a failed relay inside the DDM (Driver’s Door Module). The OP will have to either (1) replace the DDM, (2) find someone to fix the DDM, or (3) rewire the truck so that the driver’s door actuator is wired to the circuits for the passenger door actuators.
Is the DDM the actual lock switches on the door? If so, I did take it apart and put some dielectric grease on the connection pins. I did not take the unlock switch apart, but I did remove it and notice some discoloring surrounding one pin.
No, the DDM is not the lock switches. The DDM is an electronic module in the door. It controls the door locks, has the remote receiver for the key fob remotes, and verifies the six digit codes entered on the exterior keypad. Your issue isn’t the switch. If it was, then the other doors wouldn’t unlock.
ah, got you. it is over the rear left wheel well behind where the jack is stored. Hmm wifey put a bunch of stuff in there. Wonder if a wire got dislodged.
The dealer thinks it is some wiring. I read up on another forum and found that a splice behind the driver door frequently goes bad, even when it looks good on the outside. I am going to check that when I get a chance.
I have assumed that the driver’s door locks when you press the lock button. If this is true, then that should rule out any wiring issue, and leave only the DDM as the problem. However, if it doesn’t lock either, then it very well could be a wiring problem.