I drive a '99 Honda Accord. Typically when I get out of the car, I use the power door lock button next to the door handle to unlock it, then I unlatch the door and then lock it again (takes about 2 seconds). Lately, I’ve noticed that the right rear door unlocks, but does not always lock again. If I wait about a minute and try again, it will lock. If I cycle the power locks unlocked/locked a few times, then eventually none of the doors will lock/unlock with each door in a random locked or unlocked configuration. With each cycle, the doors make less and less noise (as if less energy is being used to lock/unlock the doors). If a wait a minute, then all the doors will respond again. I don’t think the battery is getting weak, because the car cranks easily even if I leave the lights on for a few hours. Could one actuator be affecting all the other actuators? Is there a control module for the power locks? If so, where is it?
normal operation,breaker is built into the master switch.
for the kid proofing.
I’m not sure what you’re trying to say here. Are you saying that my car is operating normally? That most cars have a breaker built into the “master switch” that would cause one lock to unlock, then not lock again? And the reason would be some kind of “kid proofing”? That doesn’t make any sense! The closest thing I have to a “master switch” would be the switch on the driver’s door that prevents the passanger power windows from operating. It does not stop the power lock from operating. There is no breaker in that switch. Maybe you mean the ignition switch? I cannot find a breaker there either. I don’t see any breakers at all. Just switches and fuses.
The only “kid proofing” that I see is related to the rear door latches (not locks). It’s a switch on the side of the door that prevents someone in the back seat from opening the door. The door has to be opened from the outside when switched to the “kid proof” position. The locks behave the same as I described above no matter what position the switch is in.
it does sound to me like your main drivers side switch is getting old, and may need replacement. however, a good electrical shop could figure out if there is enough amps getting through when the switch is being used.
ask around for a good auto electrical shop. OTOH, a good mechanic should be able to trouble shoot this too. the intermittent, but repeatable nature of this should make it easy to track down.
Thanks for your reply, cappy. The switch is original equipment and there’s 128K miles on the car so maybe it is a little old. However, using the passenger’s side switch shows the same symptoms. I’m thinking that there must be a common point beyond the switch. Do you know if there is a control module somewhere that both switches connect to?