Is there a rear toe adjustment for a 2006 Nissan Frontier? I ask because the last alignment shows -0.05 left and 0.11 right for the rear tires and they are wearing on the outsides. Fronts are not wearing after 150 mi. Thanks.
If it has an independant rear suspension, then there is a toe adjustment. Has to do with tracking angle.
If it’s a solid rear axle suspension, then there’s no toe adjustment.
Tester
Too much positive camber will also wear the outer edges of the tires but I think your truck uses a solid beam rear axle.
That leaves the question; where does the toe-in, or potential pos. camber, come from?
What are the camber specs?
Has this truck been whacked before?
Since those toe figures are so low maybe it’s not toed-in at all and that is an alignment rack discrepancy.
ok4450,
Front camber:
LF -0.01
RF 0.2
Rear camber
LR -0.3
RR 0.0
I bought this truck new in 06. Never had this problem before I took it for an oil change at the dealer. Well, after 1 hour, I get in the truck and noticed 75 miles more on the odo. I think the technician took it for a joyride and either went offroad or went over a few curbs. I didn’t notice the extra mileage til I got home. Anyways have had 3 alignments since (one just way off on front toe). Finally got in specs per a different dealer but still ‘drifting’ left to right over 50mph and outside rear tires are wearing. Maybe something is bent in the suspension??? I did get printout from last alignment and it gives me actual and before readings for the fronts and specs - what their computer says it should be. It does give me actual and before for the rears but no specs are given on for the rears on the printout… Perhaps and hopefully it’s just abnormal tire wear?? Maybe new tires are needed??
I would be inclined to think something may be tweaked rather than an abnormal tire problem.
That 75 extra miles would bother me - a lot. There is no justification for that at all on an alignment. Vehicles are often test driven before the alignment and afterwards but not for that distance.
Mechanics work on flat rate and test drives of any length are done for free. The tech is not making one cent while test driving so they are not going to lose that much time (which equals money) driving that distance.
Did you leave this truck with them for several days?
I’m afraid I don’t have an answer for you short of taking this truck to a body shop and maybe getting it put on a Chief E-Z Liner machine or something like that.
If something is tweaked I believe I would probably be down at the dealer wanting to know where those miles came from and who done it. Probably be down there anyway wanting to know about this discrepancy.
Three, four, or five miles - maybe. At the most. Not 75.
Have the wheels checked for warpage. There could even have been a washer left between the wheel and the hub flange.
Was a substantial load in the bed when the alignment figures mentioned were measured?
At the very least giv’em HELL for putting all those miles on truck- dealers do this stuff a lot and it stinks. Then later you’ll have some leverage if you talk to them about any of these issues. Most automakers of vehicles w/ solid axle rear suspensions give no rear alignment specs, since there’s no way to adjust angles short of “drastic” measures. You’re looking for something close to zero for rear toe and camber;
and it’s good to see a balance in the values side to side. (Value is what the angle is, Spec is what it’s supposed to be.) Typical rule of thumb specs for this scenario: rear camber- ea. side: zero plus or minus 1 degree, and the 2 camber angles should be within 1 degree of ea. other.(This is called the cross camber spec.) Toe: zero plus or minus maybe .10 degrees for ea. side. No cross toe spec. You can see toe has
to be around 10 times as accurate as camber. Personally I don’t neccessarily see the rear toe values off a humungous amount. I’ve seen rear toe values worse than this on ind. rear susp. cars whose rear tires were wearing pretty well. I’m going w/zero plus or minus for my specs because if angles are at zero on rack, they should be at zero driving straight ahead down a straight road because there’s no suspension arc on
a solid rear axle. Do you have pretty aggressive tires? Sometimes they just plain wear funny even when angles are OK. Maybe give it a few more hundred miles and see if wear has gotten worse.
They did an oil change AND drove it 75 miles in one hour, somebody was really flying.
If I were you, I’d jack up and support the rear axle with very good jack stands and then put it in gear and run the tires at a low speed to look for a wobble. A bent rim or bent axle would appear as an alignment problem, but one that has different readings each time its checked.
By outer edges, do you mean the both outer edges of each tire or only the outer edges but not the inside edges of each tire? If its both outer edges, it could be low tire pressure.
Good point! I overlooked or forgot the one hour part and don’t see how having an additional 75 miles would be possible even if someone blew through an oil change in 10 minutes flat. 75 miles in 50 minutes counting city driving time to and from a freeway…??? A Ferrari maybe, not a Frontier.