So the rear tires on my mazda 5 get wore out quick (bought the car as is to fix up) the rear control arms need to be replaced today i started to remove them got the bolts loose pretty quick the bolt near the rotor is easy to remove (this is all on the drivers side rear end) but the inner bolt is loose but there isnt enough room to pull the bolt out there is a bracket for the exhaust in the way i have no ideas how to get this bolt out im stuck otherwise this probably would of only taken a few hours -_- someone help.
What year?
Remove that bracket… Or am I missing something?
Time to polish up your web searching skills. In a few seconds I found “Factory Service Manual Mazda5” came up with lots of choices. They start at $8 on Ebay. Are they useful or crap? I sure don’t know. But maybe one would help. Here’s one result of the search, just as an example.
Left and right both have bolt removal issues? Bracket is issue on both sides?
I did the same repair and had the same problem. I took a pry bar and pressed the rubber exhaust mount as far towards the passenger side of the car as I could. Then, slipped a drift pin into the bolt hole and pushed it as hard as I could. It eventually came out. After I got it out I cut about 1/2” or more off the end of the bolt so it would go back in without issue.
My tires were getting scalloped within a year of purchase. If you don’t have the ADJUSTABLE control arm from Moog, don’t bother reinstalling. The OEM part will not solve the problem. The problem is your camber is way off and there is no camber adjustment on the rear, f***ing stupid design.
Just saw this is from April, but maybe someone else will have the problem.
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On a 2015 M5 (guessing the OP’s model year) there’s an upper control arm and a lower. Which one is causing the bolt-removal difficulty? If one bolt is easy to get out, seems like you could remove that one, then allow control arm to rotate enough (may have to use a jack) so access to other bolt is possible. For the lower control arm may need to remove the coil spring and bumper first. If there’s stabilizer links involved, may have to remove or loosen them too.