I would like to replace the torque mount on a 2007 Mazda 6 S 3.0L.
I noticed when I had the vehicle on the lift that removing this mount was not like other Mazda6’s. Unlike other years of the same vehicle, this one has the exhaust running under the subframe, right next to the mount, making it difficult to pull out the bolts without removing the exhaust pipe.
My first question is, how do you remove the bolts holding the different sections of the exhaust?
The bolts I am able too see look like you have to hold a wrench on one end and an impact on another end to loosen the nut, but then there are others that are facing upwards, and has very little room to fit a wrench in there. Maybe the nuts holding these bolts on the other end is soldered in place?
My 2nd question would be… Do you have to put on new gaskets or seals on exhaust pipes?
This will be my first time removing exhausts. I need all the advice I can get. If there is a way to remove this torque mount without taking apart the exhaust, please tell me. Jacking up the engine a bit maybe?
My last question is… There an exhaust leak because of that ruptured section you see in the exhaust pipe. What is this part called? Maybe I can replace it at the same time I do the torque mount. Can I live with it? I have been driving for a long time like this. Was first spotted by a shop and said the only problem would be smog, but the car has never failed smog.
I have already replaced both the passenger side motor mount and the ATX mount. Once I get this torque mount done I will be fixing the oil pan leaks in the pictures.
Thanks a lot
The front pipe connects to the exhaust manifold.It has a flex pipe soldered to it. This is best left to a muffler shop for repair.You could probably buy the complete front pipe for your vehicule and have someone install it.
Look on a site like Rockauto, there are usually pictures there that show the pipe so you get the right parts and the gaskets. Replace the pipe. Just do it. It has a leak and you need to remove it to get to the mount.
Hit the nuts with penetrating oil and let them sit overnight. Use an impact wrench on the nuts or bolts if you have one. That is the best way to remove exhaust this side of cutting it. If the bolt/stud is welded to the pipe, it won’t spin. If it spins, then put a wrench on it.
Be prepared for bolts and studs to break but that’s why you soak overnight, to minimize this. You may need to drill and replace to remove broken studs, ect. If you aren’t prepared for this, take it to an exhaust shop or at least line one up to fix what you break.
So I can’t replace this pipe myself?
Thanks Mustangman. Will do.
Exhaust work can be difficult. Just part of what’s involved in diyer auto repair. Remember you always have the option of cutting the bolts, or even first cutting the pipes off with a hacksaw or metal cutting blade equipped electric sawzall or air-powered saw. Then refitting with new parts. Anytime an exhaust joint is taken apart, a new corresponding gasket must be used when re-connecting. Besides rust penetrating solvents, heat and cold treatments can be very helpful in getting a stubborn bolt or nut to move. Contrary to what you’d think, twisting a stubborn bolt in the tightening direction first can be helpful too.
Not that difficult if you have an impact gun. Make sure you spray all the bolts with penetrating oil first. Replace the 3 gaskets 256-214(2) and 256-287(1)
Part only cost $157 at rockauto.
Sigh… I hope they have that kind of tools where I rent the lift Why did they changed the exhaust design in the 2006-2007 Mazda 6’s… Makes no sense whatsoever. It is almost like if they want you to spend all that money by breaking accidentally all the stuff that is preventing you from doing a simple thing such as swapping out a mount.
Excellent! Thanks COROLLAGUY1
Exhaust repair is a poor choice for a no experience in the specialty field DIY. Working flat rate penetrating oil was not an option. I would go directly to the oxy/acetylene “hot wrench”. Heat the nuts one at a time to dull red and spin off with the impact wrench remembering to dump the nut from the socket on the concrete floor instead of my hand. I would recommend an independent exhaust repair shop. Once the exhaust repair is done I’m thinking OP should be able to remove the exhaust pipe from the flange and possibly move it out of the way enough to complete the other repairs securing it with a zip tie. They could then bolt the exhaust pipe back in place.
I’ve seen magazine articles recommend the use of brass fasteners for the exhaust system. Apparently this makes it much easier to take apart the next time. I’ve never tried it myself so don’t know if there are any downsides other than the extra cost for the fasteners.