Never have I ever had one stuck on like this. I tried several wrenches, wraparounds, last resort the screwdriver through the body and turn . . nothing. The “can” or metal housing is now completely off, all the “guts” completely out, and I’m down to the baseplate using a sharp chisel, still won’t budge. Limited room to tap, of course. Any suggestions? Rocketman
You did not tell us what make, model and year car you have.
The “can” or metal housing is now completely off,
Off what? can you replace the fitting the oil filter was screwed onto?
Sorry Joe . . . it’s our new 2010 Civic LX, 4-cylinder, non-Vtec, the filter “can” is torn apart and off . . . the only thing still attached to the engine is the base of the filter, the female part that screws onto the engine male part. I’ve tried tapping this thing a number of times with a chisel and hammer, won’t budge. Rocketman
I think Joe is on the right track…FIRST, obtain a new oil filter adapter, the tube that screws into the block and in turn, the oil filter screws onto…With that new part in hand, you can now clamp a set of Vice-Grips onto the portion of the tube protruding through the oil filter base plate and unscrew the adapter tube from the block, base plate and all…
Failing that, as a last resort, use an oxy-acetylene torch to cut a circle in the base-plate as close to the center tube as possible. OR, as a last thought, just heat the base plate hot enough to melt the fused rubber gasket and the base-plate will just spin off once the rubber bond is broken…
So it’s the rubber gasket that’s holding it on and not the threaded part? Maybe a razor blade between the engine and the filter? I DID lube the gasket when I spun it on when I changed it before and I didn’t really crank it tight, just hand tight, no wrench. Rocketman
The threaded tube that comes out of the block . . . I’m sure it comes out somehow, but never took one out. Anyone know how it might come out? That way I’ll be able to take the threaded tube out of the block and work the filter base off of it without screwing up the machined surface of the block with a screwdriver or razor blade. Since the outside of the tube is threaded to accept the filter base, does it make sense that the inside of the tube might have either a slot or may accept a 1/4 inch drive? My back won’t take anymore today, so tomorrow I’ll try the razor blade idea to cut the gasket, after that I’ll see if the tube will come out. Never had this much trouble with a simple oil change . . . never. Rocketman
A big pipe wrench may be helpful, Sure hope they have not gone to reverse threading.