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Oil Filter Adapter Seal 98' K2500

Diagnosed the oil leak on my truck as being a bad oil filter adapter seal. Got the kit and got the oil drained and the filter removed (long battle with this one…). Any way after my battle with the oil filter (swear the dealership had Hercules in the back somewhere…) I noticed some metal lines going into the adapter. Will these two lines need to be removed before making it possible to replace the seals or should I be able to remove the two bolts and lowering it down?

Also if the lines do have to be removed how did ya angle your wrenches? Seems like an awkward spot with shaft in the way.

Any advice on this one?

There’s actually two plastic retainers that hold the oil lines.

You squeeze the retainers and slide them out to remove the oil lines.


Sounds good…thank you will post an update tomorrow. Kills my back when I gotta lay on my back not not use a creeper.

No experience w/your specific problem, but might can help a bit anyway w/your method. Not sure if this applies to your truck, but when the oil filter is difficult to remove on my Ford truck I sometimes I have to drive a big screwdriver smack dab through the middle of the old filter, then using the screwdriver as a handle/lever, it is easy to develop enough torque the spin the oil filter off. It does make a bit of mess though.

If laying on the ground is uncomfortable/awkward and using a creeper isn’t a good solution either, I have a big piece of vinyl floor material I lay down on the ground under the car instead. It is very slippery so I can just slide around unencumbered by friction between me and the ground. This is a good solution if clearance between the bottom of the car and the ground is a problem. Another added advantage is that oil spills wipe off the vinyl with little effort or time.

If your wrenches don’t seem to fit the space available, you either have to remove what’s in the way, or buy wrenches that do fit the available space. I often do the latter, and stop working on the car go to the hardware store to get the appropriate sized tool for the job. In really tough no-space cases there’s a set of tools called a crows-foot socket set attachment set that can work wonders in tight spaces. One time I had to resort to buying some long needle nose pliers that were bent at 90 degrees. Wasn’t a pretty sight, but it did the job.

Indeed the right tools always make the biggest difference. In this case with the filter I was able to use a strap wrench and barely get enough space (was at the adapter side) to make small turns until it broke free (amazing how when I have someone up above telling me to call a mechanic it helps agitate me enough to get it done).

As for the vinyl I believe Lisle makes a vinyl pad…until then might have to stick with my ol’ cardboard until i can save up enough to order something in.

Stiff, thick cardboard works pretty good in a pinch too. Hard to believe, but I think I have at least a half dozen different oil filter wrenches, and over the years I’ve had to use all of them. My favorite in difficult removal situations uses a chain rather than a strap and fits in tight spaces.

Crazy how many designs have been applied into the automotive world. Just saw how it is on the newer Toyotas not a huge fan and does not look any “greener” (plastic in the trash!).

Any way back to the topic…on my so called “break” for this

Was able to get the quick connect off with a flathead screw driver (the ones shows in the video are NOT stock like on my pickup). Now (hopefully) just gotta remove the two bolts get covered in more oil and replace, fill up the oil, and check for leaks. Also going to go ahead and replace the adapters and connectors.

Well the battle is half won. Adapter is off now just gotta put on the new fittings (after markets with plastic clips), pick off the old seal and then reinstall (YAY).

Any way special areas on this place were I can post a little “help guide”?

I have a whole box of filter wrenches, and my best has a spiraled flat spring that grabs the filter casing and tightens around it as you unscrew. I also have one with three “legs” that tighten around the housing that works pretty well. And it seems that every 5 years the manufacturers make the filters smaller and I have to get another filter wrench. Of course now they’re eliminating the screw-on canister filter entirely. Go figure.

It amazes me how many people put filters on with wrenches. Filters should only be installed wrist tight. I use latex gloves for some extra grip, but never use a wrench. Any filter that requires the “screwdriver trick” has been overtightened.

Indeed. When I did my first oil change on my Neon I have to use a 3/8 BREAKER BAR w/ filter socket and a impact wrench w/ adapter and grip socket just to get the plug out (no joke).

Random q on this one don’t wonna do more damage long term wonna shine this adapter up would it be safe using carb cleaner on this?

I’ve found that NOT lubing the filter gasket with oil before installing requires the hammer and screwdriver. Glues the bugger to the engine better than Super Glue. Every new car I’ve ever had put up a heck of a fight at the first oil change. Sometimes, oil change places and dealers don’t oil the filter,

Think on this one (i’ll check the thickness of the OE gasket from dealership) I maybe able to take a flatehead in one of the bolt holes and give it a small tap to break it loose. Will even take aim at the picks again. Parts should be in tomorrow for connectors.

Well with a little hard work and adding a few shirts to my “mechanics collection” Big Blue is back up. Did notice a nice increase in oil pressure as well.