I drive a 2008 Isuzu I290 pickup, just like a Chevy Colorado.
My dome light won’t turn on when I open drivers door. Works fine from passenger door. Also radio won’t turn off when driver’s door opened. works fine with passenger door.
Swapped door jam switches and same issue. Used a volt meter and read 12 V on passenger side at door jam switch. Do not read any voltage at driver side door jam switch. Checked all the fuses and no issues found.
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As far as the OPs problem, seems to be a broken wire issue. Since you know it isn’t the switch… parts swap proof… it must be a poor connection. Check for continuity from farther back in the harness, past the door into the car.
Hi, ok thanks for the info. It’s hard to trace the wire back once it runs into the car frame. I’ll need to take up carpet and take things apart. I discovered this pickup has a large grouping spot on the fender under the battery. I’ve read of many grounding issues in this model. I’m going to check the cluster of wires and make sure they’re grounded.
Hey, I’ll take the battery out tomorrow. I did see a lot of battery acid staining the fender under the battery. Since there’s a cluster of wires below there grounded to the fender, I’m sure I’ll need to clean it. I suspect the issue is still somewhere else in the wiring closer to the door jam. I’ll report back what I find. Thank you
I had a problem with a leaking battery some years ago on my Corolla, where the battery acid sort of decanted from the battery & down the inside of a thick wiring harness containing a dozen+ wires . As you might expect, nothing good happened from that. The symptom showed up as the battery not being charged by the alternator. Fixing that was a big job.
But I suspect the more likely location of the problem is that door wiring harness which flexes every time the door opens and closes
In any case, it shouldn’t be hard to follow your advice and slice open the engine bay wiring harness underneath the battery tray and inspect the condition
So I did pull the battery and out and cleaned up under it with a wire brush. It needed it regardless.
I discovered the issue: 3 wires were totally broken in the rubber boot that spans between the frame and the extended cab door. Basically, between older wires, and every time the the door opened and closed just broke the wires. I went ahead and fixed all the wires with splices. The rest of the wires were showing signs of nearly breaking in half. I got the speaker to work (by fixing those wires); and got the radio to turn off, and the dome light to turn off with the driver door closing.
The volt meter is very necessary.
Thank you guys for the advice! Very good diagnosis.