I drive a 2008 Isuzu I290 pickup, just like a Chevy Colorado.
My dome light won’t turn on when I open drivers door. Works fine from passenger door. Also radio won’t turn off when driver’s door opened. works fine with passenger door.
Swapped door jam switches and same issue. Used a volt meter and read 12 V on passenger side at door jam switch. Do not read any voltage at driver side door jam switch. Checked all the fuses and no issues found.
Methinks ChatBot has joined the forum. Notice the nonsense in the last paragraph.
Additionally, it looks like the chatbot has learned from low quality SEO content mills that are put out by those people who get paid to write about topics that they know nothing about. I wonder how much of this content originates from 3rd world countries like India where they do generally know how to read and write English to some extent.
That is the reason why I flagged it.
As far as the OPs problem, seems to be a broken wire issue. Since you know it isn’t the switch… parts swap proof… it must be a poor connection. Check for continuity from farther back in the harness, past the door into the car.
Hi, ok thanks for the info. It’s hard to trace the wire back once it runs into the car frame. I’ll need to take up carpet and take things apart. I discovered this pickup has a large grouping spot on the fender under the battery. I’ve read of many grounding issues in this model. I’m going to check the cluster of wires and make sure they’re grounded.
There’s probably a door intermediate connector near the driver’s door jamb
Don’t take apart more than you have to
And it’s probably not a grounding issue, but a broken wire inside the wiring loom that flexes every time you open the door
Please don’t overthink this
Right on. Good point. It’s an issue further up the wiring. I know a few places to look. Thanks.
The wires under the battery might have got some battery acid spilled on them. Suggest to check for signs of a battery acid leak problem.
I don’t see what you mean. Maybe that content has been removed already.
Yes it has been 100% removed, from my end anyway…
Hey, I’ll take the battery out tomorrow. I did see a lot of battery acid staining the fender under the battery. Since there’s a cluster of wires below there grounded to the fender, I’m sure I’ll need to clean it. I suspect the issue is still somewhere else in the wiring closer to the door jam. I’ll report back what I find. Thank you
I had a problem with a leaking battery some years ago on my Corolla, where the battery acid sort of decanted from the battery & down the inside of a thick wiring harness containing a dozen+ wires . As you might expect, nothing good happened from that. The symptom showed up as the battery not being charged by the alternator. Fixing that was a big job.
You bring up some excellent points, George
But I suspect the more likely location of the problem is that door wiring harness which flexes every time the door opens and closes
In any case, it shouldn’t be hard to follow your advice and slice open the engine bay wiring harness underneath the battery tray and inspect the condition
So I did pull the battery and out and cleaned up under it with a wire brush. It needed it regardless.
I discovered the issue: 3 wires were totally broken in the rubber boot that spans between the frame and the extended cab door. Basically, between older wires, and every time the the door opened and closed just broke the wires. I went ahead and fixed all the wires with splices. The rest of the wires were showing signs of nearly breaking in half. I got the speaker to work (by fixing those wires); and got the radio to turn off, and the dome light to turn off with the driver door closing.
The volt meter is very necessary.
Thank you guys for the advice! Very good diagnosis.