If the $110 reman can be problematic, it seems to me the $50 seal kit installed by a DIYer can be, too. To what extent do you want to DIY this problem?
It’s possible the torn boot let in dirt and grit and moisture, which over time wore and corroded the shaft in the R&P, which led to the fluid leak… but probably the seal was already old and less elastic than when new, and was about to give up anyway.
Maybe the problem with the rebuilt R&Ps is that corrosion on the shafts the seals encircle has not always been adequately dealt with, so even new and elastic seals are not up to the task.
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Good insight.
@Tester - I used the stop leak you mentioned.
They recommend max of 2 bottles. I used 3/4 bottle. If it works, say 2 yrs down the track, do I continue to use this Lucas fluid? I use a syringe to remove and refill with Honda fluid, periodically.
The fluid is thicker than the Honda fluid - also smell like adhesive used to patch a bike tube. I won’t be surprised if it works.
Good luck… please keep us informed.
I did not have to top it up since I filled it - I am unsure if there might be a drop or two on the ground or the source of it.
Steering has become a little harder - wondering if it had sealed the leak, I could put back the Honda fluid (which is thin)?
PS leaks often occur where the high pressure hose connects to the PS unit. When the steering is turned to the limit stop, that flexes that joint, and over time the rubber hose can slightly separate from it’s metal connector. The symptoms don’t correspond to the way this usually fails, but worth taking a look.
Is this near the rack-Pinion - where is this connector located?
On my Corolla it is adjacent to the power steering pump, but where the high pressure hose attaches to the top of steering box. If you have somebody turn the steering wheel all the way to the limit w/the engine idling while you look at the hoses in that area, the one that is flexing the most is the high pressure hose. Look at the connections on both ends for leaks.