Cancel it. You really need to be some ‘great’ driver to be able to spend that much in first 3 years. You got a royal bad deal. If anything fails within 3 years, Subaru will replace it under warranty.
Go ask on Subaruoutback .org board
Cancel it. You really need to be some ‘great’ driver to be able to spend that much in first 3 years. You got a royal bad deal. If anything fails within 3 years, Subaru will replace it under warranty.
Go ask on Subaruoutback .org board
I’m the manager at an independent repair shop. I also am an independent case arbitrator, handling new car warranty disputes between customers and several automotive manufacturers.
Your new Subaru requires synthetic oil. We charge $89.95 for that service, and since I assume cost of living in general is higher in the DC/Baltimore area than in Western Oregon, I think $79 is a good deal.
As far as your warranty requirements, the Magnuson-Moss Act stipulates that you are free to perform your own maintenance or have another party perform the maintenance for you. Your warranty will be intact as long as all your scheduled maintenance is performed on time (both months and mileage) AND the parts and lubricants you use meet Subaru factory specifications. So be sure your receipts state clearly the type of oil and part number for the filter used. Because if you show receipts for plain old SuperTech 5W30 or whatever brand transmission fluid was on sale that week, if there ever is a powertrain warranty issue, Subaru will have a foot in the door to deny your claim.
Most independent shops are aware of this and do their very best to maintain your confidence and your warranty.
For the sales rep to state that maintenance must be done at the dealer to keep your warranty valid is a flat-out lie.
Look in the owners manual and see what the 30k mile maintenance entails. Better yet, call the dealership and tell them you’d like a quote on the 30k mile service for your specific vehicle. Don’t tell them who you are, of course. See if they quote you $1260.
No it is not. …It’s robbery.
That is the price of the oil change alone, the regular 6,000 service will include a tire rotation and will be priced higher. There is other maintenance during the the first 3 years of operation that is included in the maintenance plan.
Pre-paid maintenance has grown in popularity, I perform maintenance for these contracts every day.
Well, there doesn’t seem to be any real consensus - while some people say it’s robbery, others are saying it’s probably an ok deal if I get all of those services in…so I’m still no closer to knowing whether i should cancel or not! I have not got round to phoning dealerships to get individual prices yet, I’m hoping to get that done by the end of the week. I will also find out from our local car shop what they would charge - we’ve been using them for years and they have never disappointed…
Have you added up the cost of all services and compared it to the cost of the plan? That’s the only way to tell.
No, as I said, I haven’t had time to ring around the dealerships to enquire about prices.
The price they charge this week might not be the same when the next oil change is due or the 30000 miles service.
Also what if you don’t use all of those oil changes because the vehicle is totaled or traded do you get a refund for the unused portion ?
I say cancel the contract and put that money in your savings account.
Based on what I see of the service schedule at a nearby dealer it provides a modest discount.
3k-69.95, 6k-49.95, 9k-69.95, 12k-204.95, 15k-69.95, 18k-267.99, 21k-69.95, 24k-204.95, 27k-69.95, 30k-438.99, 33k-69.95, 36k-204.95= $1791.48 vs $1380 current maintenance plan price for 3yr/36k. A 22.96% discount isn’t horrible and really isn’t it better to have the maintenance cost part of the monthly payment so you know up front how much you are paying for the next 3 years rather than get caught off guard by a big maintenance bill when you hit the major milestones?
Sounds good,
But I only drive 4000 miles a year, so I could only use the first 4 (3k-69.95, 6k-49.95, 9k-69.95, 12k-204.95) or $384.80 worth, I’d save $1000 buy not buying it.
Why would the difference be that much? The cost difference for synthetic is only $15.
That is what my local dealer charges, I’m not going to justify it, I do my own oil changes. BTW, there are different oil filters for 5w30 and 0w20, but the cost of each is about the same.
You would have to check the dealer. Sometimes real costs and those charged vary greatly. For instance, my car uses synthetic oil that costs $13 each @ 4 quarts, plus a $12 oil filter (Amazon) somewhat higher at the dealer. The oil change includes rotating tires and an inspection. On special it they did the service for $50, vs over $60 at home. I assume their standard pricing is over $130 since dealer parts price was over $80.
Come warranty issue time, there is no confusion about the car’s maintenance. For instance, my warranty could be void if I don’t use spec oil. I don’t have to keep all that extra paperwork.
Like It_s_me, it would not pay for my car. I change earlier than the gauge, but still run 8 months. Dealers wised up since 2005. I bought the $400 lifetime oil change. It cost $8 per change.
To return to the original question, whether one of these plans actually results in saving money is dependent on how long the purchaser keeps the car. A co-worker of mine bought an Accord, and she agreed to the prepaid maintenance plan, laying out… a lot of extra money… at the time of purchase. Within ~1.5 years, she decided to get rid of that Accord because the seats were killing her back on long drives. She wound-up losing a whole lot of money for that prepaid maintenance plan.
Where are you buying your oil? $13/qrt is absurd. $12 oil filter?? You’re getting ripped off.
Rotating tires and inspection and other miscellaneous items should be the same for a standard oil change or a synthetic oil change.
We do a lot of purchases from Amazon but things like oil and filters , not even going to try. I want things like that from a local business that I can trust .
I’ve been buying my oil on-line at WallMart. They have one of those mail systems at my local Wallmart. Reason I do that is because I can’t always find the oil I need on the shelve. This ensures I’ll get it. Same price and zero shipping cost, and ready for me when they say (usually within one day).
Check Platinum Euro Full Synthetic oil prices. It is the one that meets FCA requirements for their turbo engines. Once the car is out of warranty, FCA won’t care if I run donkey urine, but they can void the warranty if I don’t run oil (and filter) that meets their spec. $13 is the price for Pennzoil, which recently released a Euro spec oil, so it’s a discount price.
Oil lubes and cools the turbo, provides some cooling for the engine, and opens the intake valves. I just had the “brick” replaced (O2 sensor error) and that part was $1550, plus hours of diagnostics. Micro amounts of impurity can plug those tiny weep holes.
Obviously the Op’s car runs less expensive oil, but you have to check. FCA doesn’t require you use their service department, but until Jeeps started running Fiat engines, it wasn’t worth it to other shops to learn the proper procedures. They aren’t something you should trust to Oil Can Henry’s.
Yes, I buy local also… except no one in the cities carries the oil/filter, except the dealer. (This may have changed in the last 6 months.) I’m certainly not going to trust a Fram filter.