My drivers side window hates the cold, getting slower as the temperature drops. When it’s real cold it gets to te point where it only goes up a fraction of an inch and stops, then I have to wait a minute and try again. I find that grabbing it and pulling while I hit the switch helps a little. So I’ve researched the problem a bit. Don’t think the rails need silicone lube as some suggest. I’ve seen one guy tap the window motor with a screwdriver, and a post about somehow getting to the brushes and cleaning them. I’m thinking just replace the motor, but it seems odd that it’s temperature related. Anyone else experience this? Thanks.
Temperature can most certainly effect a worn window motor.
Since the drivers window is the one that gets used the most in the vehicle, that motor is the one that wears out the fastest.
What usually wears out in these motors are the shaft bushings and the brushes. And temperature can have an effect on shaft bushings and brushes.
These are non-serviceable motors. So the motor is replaced.
I replaced the motor and regulator just last year after two years of fighting with my 08 Expedition.
When it got to the point of not working on a cold frosty morning when I had it down to see out . . added to it not coming up with snow or rain blowing in at the drive up . ( same as your, in fits and starts between tripping the breaker )
A motor in use so much just gets senile after a while knida like ‘‘dog years’’.
What tester said.
Fact is, motors that are wearing out can become more sensitive to cold. Old lubricant that’s no longer pure can become more viscous, old wire insulation can begin to break down reducing the magnetic field in the windings as the coils short out one by one. Lots of stuff can happen.
Is the window operating OK when the engine is running? Is the starter dragging also? If so your battery may be geting weak.
Ok, so sounds like get a new motor. Not a running engine issue, and the battery is relatively new. From what I have seen, a relatively easy task. Thanks for the input.
I’m not sure what you mean by “a relatively easy task”. If you plan to do it yourself, I would check the manual for the procedure. The door panel needs to come off and then access may be an issue. I’ve never done one myself so just a word of caution having spent some time looking around the inside of a door.
A shop might jumper 12 volts (or whatever voltage it uses) directly to the window motor to see if it worked being powered directly from the battery first, before replacing the motor. Any extra resistance in the circuit (like if the window up/down switch is worn out) can cause this symptom, and if it is that replacing the motor won’t fix it.
I agree on checking the voltage first before replacing the motor. Also, lube on the mechanism gets thicker during colder temps.