Please help, i have a 99 swift automatic. It stoppted responding when i would press the gas petal. Not reving at all either. i was told it was the trans so i got a car that was not running but the engine and trans was working and changed the trans and same problem. Now i know that trans was in good shape because we drove the junker car here and it ran fine, it was just busted up cosmetically and needed a battery and fuses to make it run. Next the mechanic told me it must be a faulty tps sensor, so i ordered one and changed that out. The car ran ok the first day, although i did notice some hesitation still but at least it ran . Today (day after i changed the tps) i get in it and exact same problem wont move or accelerate when i press the gas. No rpms car wont rev, its as if im not even giving it gas, today it was worse and didnt even seem to want to stay turned on, sputtering and not responding to the gas petal being pressed. trans seems to be fine, car turns on fine, but not responding at all to the gas, what could this be??? i’m a low income single mom who needs her little car for work and this is getting really troubleing anyone pls help. my mechanic is just a local one with no access to a computer to diagnose it. I know him personally and he’s trying his best but this is difficult. Also the car seems to run somewhat after its really warmed up, but really lags or wont respond to the gas petal at all if its cold.
I would start looking at fuel starvation. Could be as simple as a bad fuel filter keeping the engine to get the fuel needed. Fuel injectors may also be a problem and a good cleaning is not very expensive and can’t hurt at all.
Make sure that you have a good air filter. Was that a new or used TPS you installed?. Do you have an engine check light on? If yes, what is the code?
hi, yes the tps was new, and i believe the ck engine light was on since i bought the car a yr ago. how do i find out what code?
I suppose you can’t make it to an Autozone or Advance Auto, they would read the codes for free. Your “mechanic” should be able to read the code without a computer. A little search on the internet shows how to do it with relative easy.
As was already stated, most auto parts stores will read the codes for you–without charge. The only exception–as far as I know–is in California, where they cannot do code reading at auto parts stores.
Just be prepared for there to be many codes popping up, simply because the CEL has been lit-up since you bought the car, and it could have been on for…years…prior to your purchase. If the initial problem wasn’t taken care of when the CEL first lit-up, this could have resulted in a cascading series of engine problems, with a consequent multitude of diagnostic trouble codes showing up at this point.
So this even happens when the engine is idling, in neutral? You press on the accelerator pedal, and the engine rpms don’t increase, or don’t increase very much? hmmm … when you step on the pedal, all that does is cause a valve to open to allow more airflow into the engine. So it pretty much has to be from among
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The valve isn’t responding the pedal for some reason, broken linkage, etc. Should be possible to watch that lilnkage all the way from the pedal to where it operates the valve. With the engine off it should be possible to actually see the valve move, but some stuff in the air intake path would have to removed first.
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There’s an obstruction in the air intake path, clogged engine air filter, bird nest, etc.
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An obstruction in the exhaust system, clogged cat, etc. This would show up on an intake manifold vacuum test.
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Problem with engine compression. Have all cylinder’s compression tested.