I advise you to buy and use this
Please report back with the results
Another thing to consider . . . the new thermostat you installed might be faulty and actually CAUSING the overheating
This does happen from time to time, although the parts stores will not agree with you and suggest you did something wrong
If you have a warped head or a crack in the head or block, a new gasket will not help. Also a leak anywhere in the cooling system will loer the level and cause overheating. Does your car have a radiater cap you can check. Before you start your car in the morning, make sure the radiator is full.
By the way, over half the parts you replaced have nothing to do with overheating. Did you at least check the head for warping?
should had a shop look at it they canāt find the problem ether they said head gasket is find compression test was good and water pump was good thermostat and sensors checked out as well and a few other things i canāt remember
donāt have money for that now but will get it and try is when i do oh and can i of damaged the thermostat i put the new one on exactly how the old one came off but it was the wrong way when the shop checked it out they said it was fine but idk sometimes shops get things wrong āoldtimer-11ā the shop checked all that thinking it was the cause but came up with same conclusion i did before i put motor back together there was no signs or visible damage to the engine block and the pistons also checked out to be good except one was a little more worn then the others iām not sure but i think compression test coming back good would rule out the pistons right? and what parts that i replaced have nothing to do with over heating because when i did my research it sad all of them could be the cause of over heating ever the sensors which i didnāt quite understand why sensors would cause overheating
The only other things I can think of is to make sure the radiator cap is not bad, or the radiator does not have a partial clog in it. make sure both fans are coming on when they are suppose to. was the temp. sensor checked?
no temp sensor wasnāt checked it didnāt pull a code so i figured it was fine should i check it? can a temp sensor make a car over heat? the fans are both working fine may be a clog in radiator but idk how to tell when i pull both hoses that a full with coolant that spills out of them after removing them
i mean if people who work on cars for a living canāt figure it out how screwed am i?
warrior might be on the something iām getting those symptoms once the car is warmed up and overheating i wonder if its possible that the sensor wont throw a code and still be bad
Not sure about the quality of your mechanic. The compression reading of each cylinder should be on the report. How did he determine one piston was worn?
The radiator should be checked for hot and cold spots. I suspect it is partially clogged.
The stalling might be another issue seperate from the overheating,
the upper hose is hot and lower hose is cold once warmed up if thats what u mean on the radiator and i spend my last little bit of tax money to have them tear down the motor and double check the engine head not sure if they lying to me but i think its possible to do that and put it back together in a day i mean it took me a day and a half to do and i had never done before let alone on this type of motor and they saw top of head looks a little worn but not much they also said its possible that person i got it from changed out the other 3 piston heads and not that one idk like i said before i never had to go this in-depth with a engine before so iām still pretty new to it. and the car drives and idles just fine until the overheating happens it doesnāt even stall or try to stall until i start overheating
I mean to check the areas of the radiator with a infrared thermometer.
ill have to get one friday is it possible for a temp sensor to go bad and not throw a code?
I mean, yes. But there are generally two types of temp sensors (although they may be combined on one unit - GM they are generally separate). One just tells the temp gauge in your dash what to read, the other tells the computer that operates the fuel injection what temperature the engine is at. The one for the gauge (or the gauge itself) could be bad and your engine isnāt actually overheating, but thatās not likely since you said the coolant was boiling in the reservoir.
I really think itās going to be a head / head gasket issue since youāve never done that job before, but I could be wrong.
ok so this is how i didnt the head gasket let me know if anything sounds wrong i ordered the one for the cars make model engine type and engine liter when i put it on i made sure it was installed the right way and all the holes etc line up just right while putting it on i put on extra hi temp liquid gasket maker a thin layer of it for extra protection not sure if it would made it worse or better but i would told it was extra protective and then i put on the head and torque down to engine specs from what the Manual told me with a torque wrench going on to set the timing with the cams and the crank and installing everything and then torqueing down the cam shaft bearings i think it what it was called to the correct specs also then put on the head cover torqueing it down to spec also and yes i added the gaskets. maybe my problem is this hex screw that came with the head gasket kit i didnāt see a hex screw when pulling off the head and didnāt see one on the engine block and no mention of it in manual i found but i could always be wrong maybe it was for something but i so no place for it while putting the stuff back together
When you replaced the head gasket
Did you have the head checked for flatness?
Did you use new head bolts or re-use them ? I believe they are torque to yield and cannot be re-used.
used the new head bolts and idk how flat the head was but to my surprise its looked fine to me and also should of mentioned the shop took a look at the head too and said it looked fine that they saw nothing to be concerned with
I donāt think it is the temp sensor because you said you do not have a check engine light on, and your fans are working. I would check the radiator out by using an infrared thermometer. you may be able to get one from your local auto parts with their loan-a-tool program. also, when your engine is warmed to operating temp, one hose should not be hot and the other cold. I am not sure if you were just using what you said in your post as an example or if that is what is really happening.
yeah the top one was hot and the bottom was cold like there was nothing going threw it so i pulled it off thinking it was not getting fluid but to my surprise it had plenty of coolant in it full to the rim ill check radiator with the infrared thermometer thurdays or friday when i get paid
Seems to me there is still some confusion about the thermostat. It would be good to confirm without a doubt the thermostat is working properly and installed right. A backwards thermostat will cause overheating.
i fixed the thermostat put it in the right way but idk if i damaged it running the car with it in the wrong way
This is true in an overheating scenario. Also, some types of composite head gaskets do wear out from age and thermal cycling, such as those made from kevlar or cardboard. Aftermarket composite-type head gaskets today are made from single-layer perforated steel with soft graphite, and those are less likely to wear out than older composite designs.
I do not know if MLS gaskets can wear out, or if they simply fail due to the head bolts relaxing over time. I do know that MLS gaskets require a much smoother and flatter surface finish than graphite composite gaskets, and for this reason it may be difficult to successfully install an MLS head gasket on a used engine. (Some engines are notoriously difficult to seal compared to others.)