i have a 03 chevy tracker 4x4 2.0 4 cylinder
its nots throwing any codes i replaced water pump thermostat camshaft sensor egr valve and 02 sensors and crank shaft sensor all of which i didnt ever have a code for and the car drives fine on cold start even idles fine but after about 10-20 minutes over heats and when i come to a stop it idles down and dies i have to throw in neutral and stay on the gas to not die out
On a cold engine, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine and let it warm up. Look into the coolant, if you see bubbles… there is your overheating problem… blown head gasket.
oh i guess i forgot something i replaced the head gasket also
What else have you forgot to mention?
Does the fan work? Is the radiator clogged? How hot does it get and how are you measuring it? How many miles on the engine? Have you done a compression test on it?
Did you bleed the air out of the system?
lmao yeah both fans work and there is no leaks i flushed radiator and changed the coolant new oil and oil filter new tranny fluid new battery and no havnt done compression test myself but a friend did and said the compression is good the air filters are new and clean idk how to measure rapid boiling lol the coolant reservoir was shaking it was so hot
by now you can consider me a newbie i guess i worked on cars before but never had to tear down replace a head gasket and put it all back together which i did and i made sure i was extremely careful about doing it and i wasnt never told i had to bleed it after replacing it or any components so how do i go about bleeding it
oh the cooling system yep now i feel really stupid i know how to do that but been without a car for 2weeks that when i was able to fix it i was so focused on that that i forgot to bleed the air out of the cooling system thank you guys so much. ill keep you posted if it worked or not
ok so i did it but still over heating is it possible that because i drove car without bleeding system that it will take more then 15 minutes to get the air out and do i need to drain the coolant from the radiator and rill fill it before trying to bleed it again?
No to both. You need to turn the heat setting to hot when you try to bleed the system to get coolant to circulate through the heater core, so hopefully you did that. From my experience, a cooling system will generally purge itself of air anyway after you drive it a bit and let it cool off. I think you probably have something else going on, to be honest.
Why did you replace the head gasket initially? Was it blown?
yeah was a blown head gasket i replaced it didn’t nothing anything else i put it on heat but noticed that everyone in the videos has it set to the person in the seat i can’t get my dial over that far can that be my issue?
this is my dial setup the one to the far right the cable is not going in all the way
lol let me rephrase that this is what mine looks like
Multi-layer stainless steel head gaskets do not “blow” like the head gaskets of forty years ago.
When the old composite head gaskets would fail, the engine would lose compression and stop running. With the MLS gasket, the engine runs until the cylinder head in warped.
To check for a leaking head gasket, pressurize the cooling system, remove the spark plug and check for coolant leaking into the cylinders.
The heater/heater fan is not a factor.
so nothing went the cylinders and this what my soark plugs look like and yes the recently new
and i replaced the head gasket 2days ago would it of really blown that fast?
The head gasket is not “blown” but could be leaking.
It’s also very possible you blew the head gasket again by overheating it again.
Perhaps the stepper motor in the gauge is shot.