hi - i’ve replaced the ignition ignitor, coil,cap,rotor & main relay but i’m still not getting any spark to my plugs - any help would be greatly appreciated - thanks
There’s a fuse located in the dash fuse box that supplies power to the distributor. This is fuse #14. Check and see if this fuse has blown.
Tester
thanks - i have checked all the fuses but i’ll re-check #14 - also, do you know if this car has a crank sensor? thanks again
Yes it does, and if it’s not sending a signal, you’ll get no spark. Good thought.
You should also make sure that power is provided to the ignition coil when the ignition switch is in both the RUN and the START positions.
Many Hondas have been prone to switch failures; maybe your car is one of them.
Yes, there’s a crank sensor. But it’s nowhere near the crankshaft. It’s located inside the distributor. I’ve replaced a lot of igniters in Honda distributors, but never had to replace a crank sensor. But it could be the problem.
Tester
thanks - i checked power to the coil in the start but not run position - it’s worth a try
I know this suggestion is basic. Have you checked to make sure that the distributor is turning when the engine turns? Is the camshaft turning (broken timing belt)?
Been fooled by that.
thanks, but I almost wished it was that “easy” - actually, I think I’ve made some progress - I’ve learned how to short out the ecu but I’m not able to get any codes - the check engine light does not blink but just stays on - I’m now thinking it might be the ecu - any thoughts?
Why would the ECU go bad in the course of a tune up. What happened? Please do not use the term “short out” that is what you should never do. You really cannot bypass the ECU as it controls the ignition coil pulse as well as the fuel cycle. What method are you using to check the ECU code?
Hello again - There really was not tune up involved. I was just trying to diagnose a no spark situation. After talking to a local honda mechanic, I was advised to jump the blue and green null connector to search for the ECU codes. I was told that this was the process I needed to follow, as I had disconnected the battery and erased all previous ECU codes. I jumped the connector, tried starting the car, and then went into the normal method of looking at the check engine light for ECU codes. That’s the whole scoop… any help would be greatly appreciated!
Have you taken the cap off your dizzy yet? Sometimes the set screw isn’t tightened enough, backs out, and then the rotor knocks it all around the distributor casing, breaking just about everything inside. Or if you’re lucky and the screw backed out, the rotor just isn’t turning like it should. Check that. And put a plug of silicone over the screw while you’re in there to make sure it won’t happen later.
thanks but that’s not thr problem - i’ve got to find a list of ecu codes to make sense of any of this…