Thanks for your help and apologies for my inability to reply. The strut rides in a channel with under an inch clearance on greater that 180. That explains the procedure! Since I removed the nut retaining the vertical stud through the spindle, it’s held fast by some combination of habit, rust and tight fit. As there’s nothing to grip and pull from above, could I use a pair of C-clamps at the ends of the spindle and a stout hunk of steel bridging them to force that sucker up?
If this is the 240Z strut replacement project, the strut with spring attached has to be removed from the car. Once the strut is on the bench, preferably in a padded vise, the spring compressor is placed on the spring; the spring tension is relieved from the seat; the piston rod nut can be removed and the strut damper exchanged. If you try to remove the nut while the strut is on the car, the spring will stay compressed if the wheel is on the ground or the spring will expand to whatever limit the suspension will allow if the wheel is off the ground.
Hope I have assessed the situation correctly. Be safe, as loosening that nut can allow the spring, its seat, the nut, and the strut to go flying with catastrophic consequences. Some machine shops will change the strut damper for a price if you bring the loaded strut to them. Ask around.
I don’t recomend that. The use of C clamps to retain suspension springs is a formula for disaster. Use that procedure you referenced in your earlier post. At least everything in the process is designed to withatand the pressures involved.
You’ll still need spring clamps to get the springs off the shock portion of the strut assemblies, however.
If you don’t have a repair manual, you gotta get one before you start working on your car. Here’s one in stock at Amazon
And while you’re at it get this, too: