Since you’ve apparently got multiple cars . . .
Alternate
Drive the 2005 Camry one week
Drive the other vehicle the following week
You won’t have battery and sludge problems
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DB is being logical again .
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Needing to drive an old back-up vehicle 2 weeks each month is a chore.
Learn how to use a battery charger.
Or sell it and make sure you have one reliable vehicle.
Thanks. So why don’t you have to worry about moisture in engine oil for long term storage but short term storage you do? I take it because proper long term storage is in a climate controlled heated, air conditioned, dehumidifier garage? Trying to learn here. I appreciate it.
Moisture is generated as the engine burns fuel. During the first few minutes of operation, the moisture condenses inside the engine. However, when the engine is hot, the moisture evaporates.
Idling the engine each week will not preserve the engine, it will cause unnecessary wear.
If you are concerned with environmental moisture, the inside of the engine is coated with oil, but the rest of the car is not. Are there rust holes in the body, chassis or engine block?
I am in a dry climate. When storing a car for 6 months (outside), I disconnect the battery and place a car cover over the vehicle.
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As noted above, water is a byproduct of combustion, While controlled climate is nice to have, it is not necessary.
I stored a car for 15 months, fuel stabilizer in non-alcohol fuel and fresh oil. Car was “up on blocks” to take weight off tires. Removed battery for storage indoors. Car was in an unhealed garage in Minnesota. Prior to restart, charged the battery, added some oil through spark plug holes, spun the engine with plugs out. Reinstalled plugs, drove car as a daily driver for 150,000 miles.
Just a word of caution when considering this- have to be careful in this approach. Suspending the weight of the car off points not normally meant to support the weight (long term) can cause issues with the structure over long periods. If it is for a really long time, it’s better to use the car’s designed suspension to support it. The effect on tires is far less expensive than frame sag for example. I have that t-shirt from leaving a BBC front end cantilevered off jackstands on the frame, inward of the wheels. Plus the suspension hanging at full travel downward didn’t do that any good either. Perhaps if I had supported it under the control arms to keep the suspension loaded it would have been better.
Winter storage probably not an issue unless there are problems with the structure anyway. Just don’t want someone repeating my mistake…
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Thanks for the help. I think I understand better know the condensation concerns, and what causes it. If a car just sits no problem. How much oil did you pour into the spark plug hole before starting it up again for the first time in months?
So I got a charger on the battery after a full charge I measured 12.56 V with a multimeter. It has been slowly going doing over the last few hours, and I’m now at 12.15 V just from sitting around for a few hours not connected to anything. I think my battery cannot hold a charge and I need to get a new one?
This is with battery outside of the car.
I don’t remember how much oil I used, probably around 10 CC per cylinder, then spun the engine with the plugs out to get the oil pressure up. Though I didn’t cover the engine, ended up spraying oil all over the engine compartment. Some recommend Marvel Mystery Oil, though I think whatever oil you use is fine, at the time I was using 10W-30.
Go to the parts store and buy a can of fogging oil.
Give a quick spray into each cylinder before reinstalling the spark plugs. No muss no fuss.
Tester
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Your first measurement was likely of a surface charge. How many hours did you charge the battery?
Those cheap automatic battery chargers perform poorly at recharging batteries that have been discharged for months, they shut off too early. Set the charger @ 2 amps and charge for 48 hours.
You will need to add oil to the cylinders if you leave the car parked behind the barn for 10 years, but that should not be necessary after 2 to 3 years parked on pavement.
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I agree with Nevada, oiling the cylinders is overkill if only sitting for a few years, just remove the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over some to start pumping oil to the bearings etc, then start as normal…
If only storing it for a few months, then just start it as normal (with a charged battery)…
I definitely agree.
Like many things, I think there are situations that dictate different approaches. I live in an area that promotes rust formation. I store numerous cars over the decades for long periods of no use. Early on, I used to revive them by cranking them over using the starter motor to oil prime and then start the engine.
That is until I found out the hard way this can cause severe damage under the right circumstances. Nice vintage corvette with a 427 big block in great shape. Rebuilt it a few years prior and was using it fairly frequently for a couple years. Then mothballed for a couple years. Do my usual and get it back running and it became apparent pretty quick something wasn’t right.
Already long story short- every cylinder had a rust ring where the pistons had sat. When I started it, the force broke them loose and they were all cracked. Since then, as a precaution, I remove the plugs, drizzle some penetrating oil in each cylinder and then rotate the engine over by hand. Often, I can feel some resistance at first but a little rocking motion and they free up.
Just a word of caution. The starter motor has lots of torque and will break things loose but can also cause a lot of damage doing so.
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It’s NOP to fog the cylinders in vehicles that are stored over the season where I’m at. We call it common sense.
.Unlike regular motor oil, fogging oil clings to the surfaces inside cylinders and doesn’t drain off the surfaces over time.
Yes, fogging oil is specifically designed to protect engine components during long-term storage by preventing rust and corrosion, while engine oil is used for lubrication and cooling during engine operation. Fogging oil typically has a formulation that allows it to adhere better to surfaces, providing a protective film.
Tester
I have never used fogging oil, but from what I have read, it is not good for cats… I also don’t know what the complete process is when using it and before starting the engine…
But this is what Google, or whatever Duck Duck Go uses, says about fogging oil…
Search Assist
Yes, using fogging oil in engines equipped with catalytic converters can harm them, as it may cause clogging and damage when the engine is started. It is generally recommended not to fog these engines to avoid such issues.
forums.iboats.com
themalibucrew.com
Impact of Fogging Oil on Catalytic Converters
General Guidelines
- Avoid Fogging Oil: It is generally advised not to use fogging oil in engines equipped with catalytic converters. This is because fogging oil can clog the converters, leading to potential damage.
- Manufacturer Recommendations: Many manufacturers, including Mercruiser, do not recommend using fogging oil for winterizing engines with catalytic converters. Instead, they suggest alternative methods to protect the engine.
Recommended Practices
| Method | Description |
|---|---|
| No Fogging Oil | Do not inject fogging oil into the cylinders as it can cause clogging and damage to the cats. |
| Use of Fuel Mixtures | Some manufacturers recommend running a mixture of fuel and oil through the engine instead. |
| Consult Owner’s Manual | Always refer to the specific owner’s manual for the correct winterizing procedure for your engine. |
Conclusion
Using fogging oil in engines with catalytic converters can lead to significant issues, including clogging and reduced performance. It is best to follow manufacturer guidelines and avoid fogging oil altogether.
WikipediaB.S.
An engine burning oil can clog a catalytic converter,
It’s not like your filling the cylinders up with fogging oil. Just a quick spray is all.
We been fogging our engines for many years. and not once have we run into a problem with fogging the engines before storage.
Tester
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I fog my 2 stroke outboard engines even though they only sit for winter. I don’t fog modern car engines for the reasons cited. Proper fogging to get the ring surfaces coated requires running the engine until it emits smoke out the exhaust. None of my engines consume enough oil to damage the CC. Too expensive component to risk when I can just as easily take the plugs out when I’m ready to run it and turn it over by hand. Even if I fogged a legacy motor, I’d probably still do that as a precaution.
The other thing to consider is whether the storage is planned or not. Likely it is often not planned but something that just happens for various reasons.