Since you’ve apparently got multiple cars . . .
Alternate
Drive the 2005 Camry one week
Drive the other vehicle the following week
You won’t have battery and sludge problems
Since you’ve apparently got multiple cars . . .
Alternate
Drive the 2005 Camry one week
Drive the other vehicle the following week
You won’t have battery and sludge problems
DB is being logical again .
Needing to drive an old back-up vehicle 2 weeks each month is a chore.
Learn how to use a battery charger.
Or sell it and make sure you have one reliable vehicle.
Thanks. So why don’t you have to worry about moisture in engine oil for long term storage but short term storage you do? I take it because proper long term storage is in a climate controlled heated, air conditioned, dehumidifier garage? Trying to learn here. I appreciate it.
Moisture is generated as the engine burns fuel. During the first few minutes of operation, the moisture condenses inside the engine. However, when the engine is hot, the moisture evaporates.
Idling the engine each week will not preserve the engine, it will cause unnecessary wear.
If you are concerned with environmental moisture, the inside of the engine is coated with oil, but the rest of the car is not. Are there rust holes in the body, chassis or engine block?
I am in a dry climate. When storing a car for 6 months (outside), I disconnect the battery and place a car cover over the vehicle.
As noted above, water is a byproduct of combustion, While controlled climate is nice to have, it is not necessary.
I stored a car for 15 months, fuel stabilizer in non-alcohol fuel and fresh oil. Car was “up on blocks” to take weight off tires. Removed battery for storage indoors. Car was in an unhealed garage in Minnesota. Prior to restart, charged the battery, added some oil through spark plug holes, spun the engine with plugs out. Reinstalled plugs, drove car as a daily driver for 150,000 miles.
Just a word of caution when considering this- have to be careful in this approach. Suspending the weight of the car off points not normally meant to support the weight (long term) can cause issues with the structure over long periods. If it is for a really long time, it’s better to use the car’s designed suspension to support it. The effect on tires is far less expensive than frame sag for example. I have that t-shirt from leaving a BBC front end cantilevered off jackstands on the frame, inward of the wheels. Plus the suspension hanging at full travel downward didn’t do that any good either. Perhaps if I had supported it under the control arms to keep the suspension loaded it would have been better.
Winter storage probably not an issue unless there are problems with the structure anyway. Just don’t want someone repeating my mistake…