I’ll look into that and get back to you thanks. You described it perfectly
Lighten the thing up as much as possible,free flowing exhaust,small nitrous and check on cam and timing profiles,maybe underdrive pulleys,correct octane fuel and I assume it has an E-fan,when its right you can tell,some of these really high output screamers can get real expensive and you do need to consider driveability,the quest for torque is a step in the right direction for good driveability and maybe consider one of those echargers that will give you 1-2# of extra boost and try to keep the revs within reasonable parameters-Kevin
While it “only” had 200 hp, I don’t remember it being criticized at the time for power. If it’s feeling ‘bogged out’, then it’s like @ok4450 said, there’s something wrong. This is fuel injected, correct?
Yes texases you are correct it is fuel injected
If the engine is weak until it reaches 4,500 rpms don’t let the tach drop below 5,000 rpms. I recall driving several Miatas that ran great when the tach was pointing toward the right but felt like they were towing a U-Haul when pointing toward the left.
And we don’t let threads die a quiet death here @pilotcar94. We beat them to death. Occasionally our monitor drags dead horses away when she thinks we have beat them sufficiently.
But that 3.0 l six was not a high strung, wind-it-out engine. It shouldn’t be driving this way.
Could be a timing belt installed incorrectly.
A friend of mine had a late-80s Supra when they were new, and it certainly had no problems with power. I remember it would pull from 20 MPH to 60 MPH in just a couple seconds in 2nd gear! If this thing is that slow, something is not right.
But when you are done, it’s still a 1987 Toyota Supra that’s worth $2000 on its best day…This is loves labor lost…Will this vehicle be subject to emissions testing?