Need help finding the right seal? 1999 Ford Crown Victoria

Hello! I’m struggling to find the right output shaft seal for my crown victoria. I’ve looked on autozone and found one that I thought was right, then i looked at rock auto and found one (under axle shaft seal) that looks different but seems right?

This is all very confusing. Specifically, I’m looking to replace the seal that sits between my automatic transmission housing and the drive shaft.

Here’s a picture of it: https://imgur.com/a/rwxb9y9
Here’s the part I looked at on Autozone: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/transmission-seal/national-transmission-seal-4764/803409_141848_0_203229
I just realised the one on Rock Auto wasn’t the right one after all.

Any help would be much appreciated! Links from Rock Auto or Autozone, Napa, and O’Reily will be much appreciated! I’m not too worried about the price, right now.

Tester

What’s wrong with the one from auto zone that you linked ?

Why is this so hard? The part may look a bit different in the pictures but is listed to fit. Worst case, have a buddy standing by to take you to the parts store if the one you bought doesn’t fit. Or if they list 2, buy them both and take one back. This is a simple in-stock part even for a 20 year old Crown Vickie.

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It doesn’t quite look like the one that’s on my vehicle. And I want to make sure it’s the right one the first time.

Edit: Perhaps it does. The colors throw me off.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a friend who isn’t busy for the next week to help me with this. The nearest parts shop isn’t within walking distance. :confused:

This looks like it would be about right. one of the things that’s daunting is that the entire seal currently on my car is a single color.

Which does not matter in the slightest.

What will you do if you screw this up and need a run to the auto parts store? That is a risk.

Yes, that is a risk. However, I do believe the risk is relatively low. As long as I have the correct part, the only things I need to pull are a section of the exhaust, the drivetrain, and that seal. It’s a gamble, but I’ve let this go for too long and I’m not about to spend the quoted $700 to fix something I can fix for less than $10.

There is also a bus. I can take a bus. It’s 20 minutes away by bus, but that’s an option.

It is true that it doesn’t matter, but it makes it difficult to figure out what it looks like exactly compared the other parts. Which part is the rubber piece and which part is the aluminium/steel/whatever piece. It hurts my brain…

Don’t forget new gaskets for that, they are not re-usable.

For the Exhaust? Thank you, that would be have pretty bad, haha!

And if the part is wrong then the online seller is not within walking distance either . Why not call your local dealer parts counter ? It might cost more but it improves your chance of the right part.

I wouldn’t even know where to begin looking for that, haha!

Your local Ford dealer should have a parts department.

After careful consideration, I have found that I don’t probably don’t need to pull that section of the exhaust. I bought 3 gaskets anyway (the exhaust is in a Y configuration, two lines from the engine going to a single output), just in case. But thank you guys so much! @Tester thank you for finding me the proper gasket. I found the one that Autozone had was the one I needed, and there was only one Autozone that had it in stock, so I just drove over there to grab it and the gaskets. I already have a seal puller (borrowed from my neighbor) and I have 4 jackstands and a floor jack! And a ratchet with the proper socket sizes. Anything else you guys think I’ll need?

To be very careful when removing the driveline, the cups on the u-joint are going to want to fall off,
After loosening and removing it from the yoke, wrap the u-joint with duct tape or black electrical to keep the cups in place, then get the driveline out of your way.

@It_s_Me Thank you! That is extremely helpful!

I will strongly suggest that with the driveshaft removed you carefully check both U-joints.
It’s often stated that you should check them to see if they’re loose but that is not always the case.
Many faulty joints can be perfectly tight and yet on the edge of failure at the same time. Lack of grease causes the needles to become square so to speak and they slide instead of roll.

I would also suggest that if you do need joints that you use Spicers. I’ve had some problems with joints from O’Reillys, AutoZone, etc as they have manufacturing differences that can leave the new joint loose which then leads to vibration.

One last question I’d like to ask: Is it necessary to remove any fluid?

Fluid might drain from the transmission when the driveshaft is removed. So have a catch pan ready.

Tester

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