OK thanks, I over looked the ES part, I was skim reading… lol
I haven’t let air out of my tires since it started warming up. The spec is 30 but noticed on the road they are reading 37. At rest cold at 33. I’ll let a few pounds out sometime.
Been thinking about putting new trailer tires on when I replace the bearings. My normal Carlisle have said 60. But looking at another brand they said 90. I can’t imagine putting 90 pounds in a trailer tire.
That is going to be the difference in load range, C vs D vs E and maybe even if steel belted or bias ply tires…
And if you have a 28’ enclosed race car trailer with a 4 post lift in it, then you are going to be running load range E’s with around 80psi in them…
Not often at 130. When catching up to traffic, start coasting down to about 20 above their usual 85 in those posted 75 rural areas.
Better fuel economy with higher pressures. The middle tread wear is surprisingly little but finally noticeable nearing tire end life.
Deleting many old photos of blood boxes (they show time and location of delivery) I found 130 mph RX350 speedometer photo.
Those of you hauling should be going by the gross axle weight div. by 2 of the trailer, not what’s stamped on the trailer’s tire sidewalls. Same as with automobiles and light trucks.
As for the Lexus specifying 45psi at one axle, is the specific Lexus an EV?
From their Teutonic competition - a 2017 A6 - (so I guess such high cold settings are possible, dep. on load or sustained speed bands):
(Don’t you just love how Germans say ‘tire pressure’… REIFENFULLDRUCK!
)
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How does that math work with a tandem or even a triple axle trailer and how about dually’s and heaven forbid dually’s on tandem and triple axles?? 
You also have to know what tire is on the wheel, and what load range is on it, you can put a load range C or even worse a P metric on a trailer or truck wheel REQUIRING a load range E tire and if the tire is over looked it WILL blow out rather soon…
So yes you do have to look at the tires sidewall to see what it says, but you also have to know what the trailer requires for tires to use…
Trust me, I worked for the biggest automotive tire company for over 17 years, I know this from experience, not by reading a few books about it, but I also had to take hundreds of test about tires over the years…
The trailer itself, if it was manufactured some time within the last fifty years, should specify, somewhere, on it, or in a manual, the tire size and, as you said, load rating.
Sure you can put P-metric tires on a trailer: If you’re delivering a hundred pair to the tire store! But common sense itself says you don’t shoe a trailer with them.
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I’ve never seen one before, not that I have ever really looked hard either, as well as a manual for the trailer, please are you being serious right now??? People don’t even know where their owners manual is for their vehicles, much less look at them… Most of the trailer makers put used tires on the trailer being sold, around here anyway unless you are buying a high end trailer, buying from a chain/big box store or paying more for new tires, much less put a sticker on them other then their names… The axle might have one for an open trailer or an enclosed trailer will probably have one, but good luck reading them if you can find them on an open trailer after being used for a few years… A lot of trailers in use are 2nd, 3rd, 4th owned, just like used cars, very rare you see anyone keep a car until it goes to the crusher… And if it is used in construction, like in real world use, the sticker, if one, is covered in mud somewhere and will be hard to find…
I have in fact (after thinking about it) looked for tire sizes on many trailers and never did see it, cause people will put just about anything on trailers… So at that point you have to figure out the gross weight of the trailer and cargo (a lot of times they have crossed scales before at some point), and make an educated guess as to what size, load range and if radial or bias ply is best for the trailer and customer… The axle can say one thing, but if the customer overloads the trailer (just like people do with 1/2 ton trucks) then even if the axle/trailer calls for load D, you probably want to put load E;s on it so the tires don’t blow out, they are on their own when a spring etc breaks… lol
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Deadly serious.
Here is a table for RV tires:
I am so glad that you know and understand the difference between a RV and a trailer… 
I will help you with that, a RV is self propelled, a trailer is pulled behind a self propelled vehicle…
And ST is a trailer tire, not for a driven vehicle…
Now if you are talking about a camper/RV trailer then I have already covered the fact that they have them…
That was meant for the manual not the sticker anyway… lol
Can something that you can live in for two weeks on vacation, that is towed, also be considered RV?
I’m just talking a 2000# 4 x 8, not a car hauler or anything. But the axle, springs, bearings, wheels, lights, etc. have all been changed. I’m just not going to buy tires that say 90# and 45 mph.
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Travel trailer.
RVs are self-propelled - unless the definition has changed - if there ever was a definition.
I had already covered that an enclosed trailer probably had a sticker…
still a trailer and I also already covered that…
Now you are just wanting to argue and get the last word in for some reason…
It is time to put it to a rest and move on…
A recreational vehicle, often abbreviated as RV, is a motor vehicle or trailer that includes living quarters designed for accommodation
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Don’t assume things.
As you stated above, RV (recreational vehicles) can either be self-propelled(what most of us call ‘motor homes’), or towed (enclosed trailer).
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Ain’t never heardem called caravans, here.
Sounds Aussie or African
Parents had a wonderful 21-foot Holiday Rambler travel trailer
Loved that it had a toilet. Shower base was in the toilet floor. Little sink in the corner, I recall.
Electric/propane gas refrigerator.
I was always checking the tires because it seemed they were the weakest part.
Had U-shaped protectors so that if a tire blew out, the trailer would slide on the
wheel protector so wheel would not become damaged rolling on the pavement.