More Info -Toyota Celica jerks in 1st and 2nd

Have taken my Toyota 3 different days to have the problem repaired. 1st day they gave it a tune up I paid, but it still jerks. 2nd day, I was told he was checking out different things, after 4 hours I took the car back (work), still jerking, Car was all day at the garage today, he said he fixed the timing, it’s still jerks and is very rough in idle. What can the problem be and am I expected to pay again even when the car is not repaired? Thank you.

What year car, how many miles, any Check Engine Light illuminated, etc?

Does the car run fine at higher speeds? (Say 50 MPH, etc.)

Exactly what did the replace during this “tune up”. Depending on the year, the word “tune up” is a bit of a misnomer in my opinion and that could reflect on the competence or professionalism of the mechanic who chooses to use that term.

Depending on the year model of this car, “fixing the timing” could also reflect on the competence and even the ethics of the mechanic.

I’m somewhat at a loss for why you think that anyone can help you via internet when your full description of your issue is that your car jerks, and all of the info you gave about the car is that it is a Toyota Celica.

Thank you for letting me know what information is needed, this is my first time online. It’s a Toyota Celica 1991 GTS - No check engine light has come on - If I let up off the gas at around 50 mph, it does start to jerk abit until I give it more. The bad jerking is in 1st and 2nd and it seems when it’s cold it’s even worse. As for the “tune up” don’t know what work was done but I paid for spark plugs, dist. cap, dist. rotor, air filter fuel filter ignition wires.

Is this a manual transmission? Is the jerking like a miss or more like you are jumping up and down on the gas pedal?

It sounds like you need a shop that might be a little better at trouble shooting. If you’re using some kind of national chain shop, try to find a good local, independent mechanic.

Since it is idling rough I’ll assume its an engine problem rather than transmission.

Has the fuel pressure been checked? Has anyone checked for vacuum leaks? Fuel pressure? While the plugs were out did they check the compression?

I thank you again for your help. It is a manual transmission. And it is way more than a miss, it’s some serious back and forth movement, when I give it a lot more gas it runs more or less normally. And it is an independent mechanic who up until now has gotten the jobs done. When I asked what had they checked, I was told everything, and maybe it’s electrical! Not going back there. Don’t know about the compression or fuel pressure, but I’ve noted it for the next. A friend also said vacuum leak, I’ve gotten some Starting Fluid and we’ll see tomorrow.

Make sure that someone checks your engine & transmission mounts.

Have someone put a vacuum gauge on it - that’s a fast way to find out if you might have a vacuum leak, but it will also tell you if the jerks are a misfire or not. To find a mechanic who can use a vacuum gauge you might have to look for one with some gray hair around the edges.

Back again, My biker buddy found within the first 15 mins. of looking under the hood that neither the dist cap (in which there was a crack) nor the rotor had been changed although it was listed on the bill that I’d paid. He changed them, it runs less bad but it’s not normal. He also mentioned something about a vacuum leak but it’s in a place he can’t reach. Have taken note of the engine & transmission mounts. Appreciate your help.

I’ve noticed this is an old post, But for anyone who is having this problem. It took me several weeks to figure out the problem. Check you EFI fuses, if they are good, check the EFI fuses connections. I found the problem by accident when changing out the battery, Had to move that fuse box that’s connected to the battery cage. When I did, the car ran great for a few seconds. Then I had to go and check fuses, then found with just a little wiggle of the wiring harness going in made a difference. So there was a short where the wire connected to the fuse.