There was also a problem with the rear passenger side upper shock mounting area rusting out, although 2005 was apparently the worst year for this.
Fair enough but ironically the back wheels turn when the rear is jacked up. Not the front unless its in neutral
Are you jacking both front wheels up or just one at a time?
One at a time. But regardless should work if in park of neutral
Nope. Not with only one wheel off the ground.
1 Like
And that is by design… jack both front wheels off the ground and turn one wheel, the other will turn the opposite way when in park… They will rotate one at a time in anything other then park… That is why your vehicle doesn’t roll away in park without the E-brake on…
1 Like
Unclear. I presume you mean when the trans is in neutral, wheel is jacked up it won’t manually rotate. If so, I think that is normal behavior for FWD cars, if one front wheel is solidly on the ground and the other is lifted, caused by transmission’s differential. Same thing could happen on rear wheels with AWD configuration. Suggest to rule that possibility in or out before deciding what to do. i.e. ask your shop to put car on lift, then test if wheels will manually rotate.
If they still won’t rotate, next step is to ask shop to tests to decide if problem is drivetrain or brakes.
As a reference, I was doing some routine maintenance on my truck’s rear brakes a couple weeks ago. With one rear wheel jacked up, it definitely wouldn’t rotate. Normal for rear wheel drive.
Update: ive only done the wheel test on a rwd truck. This is AWD. so i took your guys’ advice and lifted both wheels. They spin well. So…
Now we are left with the obvious, id say. The transmission. Replaced a speed sensor (oss) and it was litered with shavings. This is the cleaned up version of it.
So what are we left with? Sometimes shifts. When I drive half a foot back there is a grind and not great movement. Almost as though the abs is stopping the driving as it stutters.
Going to change the tranny fluid tomorrow in a last ditch effort to get any use out of this.
Ideas? Dont say junk it. As a man im going to see it through, even up to learning how to rebuild trannys (gotta be an all-the-way mechanic sometime)
Maybe shifting solenoid before whole tranny?
Didn’t you say prior owner believed there was a serious transmission problem? After you’d eliminated the easy stuff, and still no joy, suggest your best bet is to believe the prior owner, bite the bullet and replace the transmission with a used one from an auto-parts recycler. Diy’ering rebuilding of a modern auto trans isn’t practical unless you have a lot of time on your hands for the learning curve.
If you have active & current diagnostic codes suggesting there’s a problem remaining with the CAN bus, might be a good idea to address that problem first. You’ll probably have to hire a shop with a Tech 2 scan tool for that.
Hey, George. Thanks for the reply.
I originally had a few CAN code issues but I bought an Autel MK808S and was able to relearn the CAN. Apparently the ABS was a new one and the VIN didn’t match. They have an option called Inducement System Re-Initialization for the CAN and PCM. I hit that and afterwards all the codes disappeared and I was able to access the ABS to do things like bleeding and active testing.
Originally I had driven the car about 0.2 miles and it was driving fine when suddenly it stopped in the middle of the street and no matter how much I revved it wouldn’t move. It gave me a 0720 CEL (output speed sensor circuit dead). I just got around to replacing that tonight but the car still isn’t going anywhere.
Now here it what is happening. I can shift, and you will hear the engine shifting with the tranny. Originally I can go a few feet back and then I’ll go forward but once it warms up it won’t allow me to do that anymore. I was able to get onto a shifter solenoid and when I was in P, R, and gear 2 it said the solenoids were off. When it was in D and 1 it said they were on. Now I find all the shards in my OSS thing indicating shavings.
So tomorrow I’m hoping to do a tranny flush and see what happens. Any further thoughts, guys?
That will be interesting to see how that turns out considering you didn’t understand how Park works in an automatic transaxle (not trying to sound mean, just realistic)… But here is an exploded view of your transaxle, NOT including the valve body that will have to be disassembled and cleaned… Not to mention the special tools that you may have to have in order to build the trans…
But who knows, you might be a natural at it…
https://www.wittrans.com/img/diagrams/132/132.jpg
You have an CD4E Transaxle and it is recommended to use this valve body upgrade kit…
TransGo SK CD4E-JR:
Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:
- Codes P1740, P1744
- Runaway line pressure
- Reduces rough 1-2 and 2-3 flare up
- Converter slip
- Bushing wear and planet burnups
- Low lube oil condition
Also Includes:
- EPC relief system
- TCC/Lock-up boost valve assembly
Well thats because I havent worked awd before. So now I know. Learning, right? Done a lot of mechanical stuff but always finding new things. So this will be new and afterwards ill know this transmission.
That was just the basic trany… Never against learning anything new… The worst you can do is screw it up and have to have it rebuilt or get a used one… lol
Exactly. Im not in a rush to get rid of it. Learning trannys can be useful so why not? Cant break it anymore than its already broken! Thanks for the schematics
1 Like
If you feel lucky, sometimes it is possible to get a problematic auto trans working again just be re-torqueing the bolts holding the valve body to the case. For someone w/an experimenter/hobbyist mindset like yourself, seems like it is worth a shot.
Ill keep it in mind. I did the transfer case fluid today and it was black as night