Transmission module?

Hey guys. Reupping the subject. New info. Me again. Looking to get some stuff sorted. My car will go to 4k roms and not move. 4wd escape 2007. Sometimes will shift. More often when cold. When it does drive it sounds like dragging a carpet across a concrete floor. Seems like tranny/transfer case area. Got a code reading tranny module but dont know if its current. Changes the oss because it had read a code. Today I tried driving and it didnt want to, then O/D keot flashing till I restarted the car.

I put an OBD 2 on it and said the torque converted never left OFF position. Hmmm… thoughts? Ordered parts for tranny replacement but you can rebuild a tranny and still have other stuff go off like shifter solenoid. Thoughts?

It would be nice if you shared the exact codes…

The best thing you can do if you are wanting to rebuild this transaxle yourself is to buy a service manual (NOT Haynes etc) just for this trans and follow instructions 100%… Also make sure you are replacing the torque converter (or have it rebuilt by a professional Torque Converter shop)…
You will have to disassemble the entire transmission and inspect it for damage and wear (worn out parts)… Then you will have to disassemble the valve body and inspect and clean everything…
WARNING!!! Lot of parts in a valve body that can be easily put back in the wrong order and or incorrectly (like a spool valve being turned 180 degrees and installed) and fit BUT it wont work and you can burn the trans up and have to do it all over again (worst case)…

Also recommend the valve body kit I already referred to you…

You have an CD4E Transaxle and it is recommended to use this valve body upgrade kit…
TransGo SK CD4E-JR:
Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:

  • Codes P1740, P1744
  • Runaway line pressure
  • Reduces rough 1-2 and 2-3 flare up
  • Converter slip
  • Bushing wear and planet burnups
  • Low lube oil condition

Also Includes:

  • EPC relief system
  • TCC/Lock-up boost valve assembly

Not sure what all parts you bought for the trans, but depending on what all is wrong, you might need much more…
Here is most but not all the parts required for the last build (but totally different trans) I did at home for a guy…

And here is a partially disassembled (3 speed) valve body that I built converting it to a full manual shift (No more automatic functions)…
A buddy of mine was building his valve body and got it out of order and I had to ship him a spare I had for him to use to put his back together, and he has built that same type valve body a few times before… lol
I told him his camera is his best friend this time and don’t mess mine up cause I don’t feel like figuring out how to put it back together correctly… lol

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This is the kit I have so far. I also am going to take out the transfer case and rebuild it. I was wondering if there was anything I could try in the meantime? Lucas stop-slip, solenoid replacing, etc. Already did fluid flushes.

Well, it is a flip rig so it’s not like you need it to get around. Just a money making venture. Good effort. I suppose.

Does it make that sound when push it? the reason I ask is b/c the description for the sound, might be coming from brakes.

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No sound. So I know its not a baring or differential thats grinding. Thats a good sign.

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update i did a complete transmission fluid drain and fill. The thing runs really smoothe even in 2nd gear which it never used to find. Only until the car is warmed up. Then its back to irs old tricks.

What ya think? Hydraulic pump? Torque converter?

@davesmopar has provided good information. Precision transmission in Texas has some good YouTube’s on the perils and complexity of transmission overhaul. Even a professional shop that did mine only lasted for a year. There is only one shop in my metro area that I trust. They won’t even sell trans for a diy install because of errors made.

I understand that and have commented on that. The thing is that it rides well other than the shifting. If I only have to replace one part thatd be optimal. Busy taking the thing apart to try shifter solenoids and filter.

You could try replacing the torque converter I suppose. That’s the only single part replacement for an automatic transmission I can think of that might create a grinding sound when driving, but no sound when pushing car.

That was my thought as well. When the torque converter is meeting the engine, itd create that grind. Because if it were a tranny grind itd be there when driving.

I presume the shop doesn’t want to be involved with fixing a problem a diy’er caused by not installing their supplied transmission correctly. Could create an awkward business situation, finger pointing, etc.

Problems with not being set up properly, whatever that means. I’ve done no transmission work except changing fluids and a modulator. I did adjust the shift rods in my 59 Pontiac based on popular mechanics. Before computers and the internet.

It doesnt matter which component it is. Once youve performed the labor of removing the transmission from the vehicle, it would be silly to not install a complete rebuild kit, as well as a new torque converter.

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