An automatic transmission/transaxle is a hydraulic unit, it requires pressurized fluid to operate, if the filter is clogged then that means there is little to no fluid passing through it and therefore can not operate correctly…
The problem is that it works well until youve driven it. When cokd i can shift back and forth like a champ. When warmer the tranny wont work at all. Starting w solenoids and valve body. Think that may be the main prob?
I had it stored at the bottom of the driveway on the street. To get it in garage i reversed and drove up a 7-10% incline. If it was just tranny gears i feel like that wouldnt have been easy, yet it worked like new. But when warmed up it wont even shift, let alone go forward.
P.s this incline drive happened a day ago. Thats weeks since my last posting about this.
It could be the shift solenoids malfunctioning once they get some heat in them, it could be the internal seals, sealing rings (Metal/Teflon), clutch friction disc, filter, any number of things…
All you can do is try and cross your fingers and hope it works…
My ford ranger registers on both its solenoid (using obd2 scanner) that its shifting. But on the escape it only registers #2 for half of the shifts. So. Maybe.
Just hoping its not more. But Im damn near ready to just take the tranny out. Hell, i just got half of the stuff off anyhow to get to the damn solenoids!
No tranny codes. Had one when stuff started flashing o/d and check engine saying the oss was bad. Put a new one in and when trying to drive it said it again. But goes away when turn car off and on again
I’d guess you have a pretty good approach. Your Escape isn’t the only automatic transmission design lacking a routine-maintenance replaceable trans filter. I’d discount that as the cause of the symptoms, at least for now. Note that common diy’er scan tools are not able to read transmission codes, or not all of them. If you are unsure about that, suggest to take your car to shop having the Ford tech-2 pro scan tool , and paying-up for a read out on all of the engine and transmission codes as the first step, otherwise you risk engaging in a series of fool’s errands.
Replacing the solenoids on a flyer is worth a try I guess. Re-torqueing the valve body fasteners probably a good idea as well. Is it fairly easy to remove the valve body? If so, before yieldng to removing the entire transmission, might want to remove the valve body for a look-see, then install it w/a new gasket.
My guess, complete guess, you are looking at a full transmission rebuild job.
The tranny head is hard to get to, hence why im replacing a remanufactured valve body as well with the solenoids. I ate a face full of a complete amount of coolant and had to buy the gasket. As well, the tranny fluid leaks out. What does this mean? Replace what you can while youre down there because its a biiiish to get back there on this car. Had to take half the engine compartment out!
The pics dont look like a lot but you can see an exposed thermostat, battery and platform is out, etc etc. Had to take a lot out x.x
New valve body, new solenoid setup, new solenoid filter, new transmission fluid.
Buggerall. I can shift well until the trans and engine fluid is warm. The trans fluid only goes up to 98.6f when the engine is warm. A guy told me the sensor could be bad.
Anyhoot, if I turn the car off and on after a 1minute latency period I can do a few shifts before it stops working again.
Wife says the car bucks down like its wanting to move when I hit the accelerate but then wont do anything. The car goes back to “rest” i.e. not looking like it wants to do anything but sit after I take foot off accelerator.
Any ideas? Maybe a clogged transmission exhaust line? Bad tranny fluid pump? The fluid is at optimal level.
I worked with a Russian guy. He had been in the Soviet military and then was a commercial pilot in Russia. And we hired him as an elec engineer. His car stopped moving so he bought a trans manual and took trans apart and fixed it. I was surprised. Maybe you will succeed too.
If the temp sensor tests ok, this symptom is consistent with the transmission fluid pressure not reaching its proper psi at some place in the fluid path, most likely b/c there’s an internal leak somewhere. I would have guessed replacing the valve body would have fixed the leak, but apparently not. Whatever is leaking, it leaks more when the fluid is hot b/c the fluid viscosity reduces. I presume there’s a new valve body gasket, and the valve body fasteners are properly torqued. Whatever is leaking is preventing the pressure from getting high enough to properly effect the shift, clutches, bands, planetary gears, all possible. Auto transmission experts may be equipped to measure the fluid pressures at various test points in the fluid pathway, next step might be to pay for this sort of diagnostic pressure port test.
Another idea, there are magical potions available on shelves in auto parts store that claim to increase internally leaking auto trans pressures. I wouldn’t recommend that approach myself, could gum up the works & make the problem worse, but if you are a gambling sort … otherwise the transmission is probably going to have to be removed from the vehicle & at least partially taken apart on a work bench for a look-see. Do you have access to the needed service and repair data for this transmission?