I think there is a misunderstanding about the recall, the replacement ignition lock cylinder should have been assembled to match the original key code. The replacement keys should have been cut with the original key code.
From the recall document;
2. Program the new keys to the vehicle, if required. Refer to “Replacing Keys” in SI. Note : Verify key function in the ignition cylinder as well as all door and trunk lock cylinders prior to delivery to the customer. If the replacement key will not work in the doors or trunk of the vehicle, refer to Replacement Key Modification in this bulletin. Note : Do not return the old keys to the customer. These keys must be destroyed and not reused. Inform the customer to destroy and not use any keys that were not brought in for this repair.
If the new key doesn’t work it is because of an error or malfunction, it should not be a different cut.
Update. For some reason I was able to get into my car from the passenger side. No idea why the key opens that side but not my side. Whatever. So I got in and nothing worked. Put my keys in the ignition and got absolutely nothing. No clicking, nada. Then I wasn’t able to get my key out of the ignition. Called my brother and he found an article that stated 3-4% of the recalls had problems removing the key from the ACC position. So my recall has a recall. But that’s just one problem. He’s coming after he gets off work to try and jump my car. No idea why the battery would be dead. I drove it on Friday with no problems, I don’t leave the lights on, nothing was plugged into the cigarette plug. Do batteries just die? Weird. Hopefully once he jumps it we’ll be all hunky dory.
I very much doubt that the old keys could be cut to match the new ignition cylinder. That could only happen if your old key was higher in every tumbler position, the odds of which are very slim.
