Well with my Escort gone south and still not having figured out whats wrong with my GM I’ve gone desperate and looked into buying from a dealership. Shopped around and came accross some nice 4x4s for under $3000 that look pretty decent. Any tips on buying on a contract along with insurance? I’ve gotten full coverage quotes and its not bad for my clean driving record at 19 ($110/mo). With the job I’m working I’ve done the math and I’d be able to afford it.
As the title says I want some input on Jeeps and Chevy SUVs…if I get rid of truck to help with this I’d probably buy a trailer long term to do the hauling.
Stay away from jeeps. Unless you like spending money to fix things, like falling windows.
I think in the long run a Chevy will be more reliable than a Jeep. The Jeep 4.0 is an almost bulletproof engine though, and a simple no-frills Cherokee should be a fairly reliable car. Stay away from the Jeep Liberty and Grand Cherokee.
Then again, anything under $3000 is going to be fairly old so I’d take a gamble on either one based on appearance and maintenance history if available.
@BillyC, talked to my step mom whos owned a few of them in the past she said the same thing.
@asemasther what I thought from the reliability of my 92’ GM pickup (up until recently). The chevy is a 97 Blazer V6 4x4, perfect for the Iowa winter roads, though I got around perfectly fine in the two wheel drive C1500 last year.
At the $3000 price point, make doesn’t matter nearly as much difference as how well each vehicle has been maintained over the years.
@BillyC…please elaborate on “falling windows.” I have owned many (about 12 I think) Jeep Cherokees since 1985 and never had a window fall out of place.
@FoDaddy indeed, people often abuse the most simple maintenance and it screws a person over long term. Learned that with the Escort (learn while young!).
I have driven Chevy Blazers and their twins, GMC Jimmys. I am not impressed. Jeeps may have their failings, but Blazers seem to have plasticky, disposable interiors, and when my GF and I were looking for a vehicle for her, we drove a few. We did not find one without the check engine light on. IMHO, this model of vehicle begins to self destruct at around 100K miles.
I got ten good years out of my 2000 Blazer but I agree with Oblivion 100%. I almost traded it in 2010 when I bought a 2010 Cobalt, but I kept it running for another 3 years and traded it in on a 2013 Equinox. This was the first vehicle I’ve owned that I would have preferred to keep but would have cost more than it was worth to get it through the NJ inspection.
The engine and tranny were still good at 128k but the CEL was on for the AIR system ($$$), both front axles were leaking at the differential, and it needed new front brakes, rotor, and probably calipers. I also needed to replace the vacuum hoses as most of them were suffering from age related rot. The 4wd system in the Blazer is complicated and expensive to fix. I believe the 4wd system in the Cherokee uses a simpler mechanical system.
The 4wd system in the Blazer is complicated and expensive to fix. I believe the 4wd system in the Cherokee uses a simpler mechanical system.
I think that depends on the years. For over 20 years most of GM transfer cases were designed and made by Chryco. Last year the plant shut it’s doors.
Yeah, the transfer case is simple, but on the Blazer the system that actuated (engaged and disengaged) the front axles used an electric/vacuum solenoid on the firewall that operated a vacuum servo under the battery that used a cable routed to the front axle that pulled a slip-ring inside the axle housing to engage the axles.
At least you don’t have to get out and manually engage hubs anymore.
Well went to the dealership yestday, the Blazer ran good but had spongy breaks and had lots of minor issues that add up, for just under three grand no go. As for the Jeep it didn’t even start, LOL!
I was approved for a loan, gonna go over to another local used lot and take a look there sometime tomorrow, they did have another 4x4 Jeep.
I’ve had those kind of experiences also when looking to buy a used car from a dealer/lot
I once drove a car that wouldn’t even stay running when you came to a stop. And the check engine light was on the whole time.
I looked at the salesman and said “Are you serious? Do you think anybody’s stupid enough to buy this car in its present condition?”
I then went somewhere else to buy my car.
Actually we test drove a Blazer that didn’t have the check engine light on. But after I floored it, it started bucking and jerking as it passed 60. The check engine light then came on and started flashing. We limped it back to the dealer. I flipped down the sun visor on the way back and it fell off into my lap. I’m sure this could happen with any used vehicle, but it didn’t fill my heart with hope for the vehicle’s reliability.
i have had .two jeep a1988 jeep wagoner.and a 1999 jeep cherokee 4.0 liter inline6.like other have posted.these engine are monster.the electric part of these truck have allways giving me problem.allways chaseing a bad fuse or bad wire.
I am going to be the party pooper again, but if you are needing to go buy a vehicle on contract, you do not need to buy a used 4x4. You need a cheap vehicle like your escort. Take the money you save on fuel and pay it off sooner. Or better yet, save the cash and buy a car outright.
I am not trying to put you down or trying to be a kill joy, im just being honest. I wish I would have paid attention when people told me the same thing years ago.
Buying a car at a Buy here Pay Here lot has more to do with lending and collecting money than it does with the traditional car business. The vehicle is merely a commodity, the asset used to secure the loan. A BHPH lot is a loan sharking bank masquerading as a used car lot.
Buying a 4x4 to deal with a few bad snow days is like wearing adult diapers all year around because of that one day a year that the spicy mexican food gets to you and lose control of your bowel and have an accident.
Is the $110/mo just for the insurance ? On a vehicle that ANY accident will total.? If you are going to buy a $3000 car on credit, what kind of APR are they charging you? At 19, you will need a co-signer…Ouch!
I dunno if it would happen today or not, but I was about 20 when I got my first car loan, and didn’t need a co-signer. The salesman told me since I was putting a good chunk of money down, they wouldn’t require me to have a co-signer on the loan; though I did get hit with a 9% interest rate
Personally, I would rather spend a modest amount to buy a POS outright, versus financing a vehicle for several years, which would also mean paying expensive comprehensive insurance until it’s paid off
If you live in Iowa, unless you are using the vehicle on the farm…don’t go with the beefy 4wd or SUV. You sound like you are trying to be frugal and save money for your future. If this is the case, an simple 2wd car will get you around just as well and save you money on maint. i live in mpls so I know your weather. there is nothing that happens in mpls that a 2wd fwd vehicle can’t handle.