Can I repair it on my own? It’s pretty deep. Please healp me
Sometimes an auto body shop is able to buff something like that to the point the damage is pretty much invisible. Since it is sitting low to the ground like that, so isn’t that easy to see anyway, that’s probably what I’d do first. Ask your insurance company to recommend a body shop who does that. Insurance companies often require problems like that, a buffed out be done first, before they’ll pay for a more expensive repair.
You don’t have to worry about rust because the part is made of plastic.
If the scratches bother you, and if you have full coverage insurance, report it to your insurance company. The insurance will cover the repairs.
If you don’t have full coverage insurance, then I’d live with it.
Tester
Christineancho, don’t panic. I know it’s not fun, but this stuff happens. As tester said, it’s not going to rust.
It is strictly “cosmetic” damage. It can be corrected. it looks worse to you because you know where to look and your eyes are drawn to it.
It does not appear to me that the scratches are going to buff out. There is some paint missing and no doubt a little gouging of the plastic front fascia (bumper cover).
Here’s what to do: Stop by a couple or three reputable auto body (collision) shops (not car service places) and have the friendly staff have a look. They work with this kind of thing all day long and will give you advice and answer questions about DIY and possible repair options.
The sun will still come up tomorrow, your baby will be restored to be new again, and better times are just ahead! 
CSA
Hi there, thank you for the advice. Can you also tell me what is those dripping-like marks by the scratch? I don’t know why is it, is it from the scratch? Or something else?
The dripping marks are from the plastic heating up as you ran the bumper along the curb.
Think of it as a candle getting hot.
It drips.
Tester
Those are paint runs, someone did a sloppy job painting over those deep scratches. I suspect this damage isn’t new.
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It just needs to be repainted. Sanded, maybe a little fill if you are particular, and then painting to match. Maybe a hundred or two at a body shop or do it yourself with spray cans if you want. If you do it yourself, sand with 320 grit or so smooth, tape and paper the fender and other areas you don’t want paint on, prime it, sand the primer a little, spray the color, then follow up with the clear over that, blending it in with the rest of the bumper. If you want, sand the blended area with 2000 grit paper and polish with rubbing compound. Don’t get carried away and stick with just painting the lower part.
If you do it yourself don’t forget that the paint needs to have a flex agent mixed into it, or it will crack right off. That plastic bumper flexes when you drive, so the paint needs to flex with it.
You can sand and feather them out start with 800 then graduate to 1000 then 2000 git when most scratches are gone wet and dry paper and any deep gouges use spot putty fill and feather them once area is smooth and uniform wipe down with recommended paint thinner mask off area and repaint. After paint compound buff then polish then wax. Should be like new. Use the paint codes for the year and make should be on the door or in glove box
With all due respect to @shadowfax, don’t worry about this if you are using spray cans of primer and matching paint from the auto store. They don’t seem need this anymore. They seem to be flexible enough not to craze or crack on bumper covers in my recent experience.
Actually, pretty much the same is true for paints used over the last 20 years. I’ve sprayed plastic fenders and bumper covers with urethane paints without any flex additive since about '93 and not had any problems. Plus the paint supplier did not recommend it either.
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Yep, nothing against flex agents but you’ll never get that in a spray can. I’ve never used a flex agent unless actually buying the SEM bumper paint and not had a problem. Usually the bumper has to bend pretty severely to crack the paint. This is the lower portion of the bumper and not likely to flex much. Probably academic since I don’t think the OP has a mind to do themselves anyway.
Also, 800, 1000, and 2000 grit paper is not used for initial sanding and feathering, but rather on the final finish before polishing to remove over-spray and orange peel. You need more like 320 wet or dry for the initial sanding and feathering, up to maybe 600 at the most.
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I’d try using some rubbing compound first, to see what’s going to come off. Sometimes these scrapes end up with a lot of paint from the curb stuck onto the body part, and that rubs off.
This one does look like someone tried to cover things up with a “touch-up” paint that comes with a brush in the cap. That often looks worse than the scrape. Everyone else is probably right that it’s going to have to be sanded out.
Or, you could just learn to live with it. These things happen a lot, and right after you get it all fixed up it will probably happen again.
Good advice. With todays low air dams it’s usually not if but when this would happen again. I had nearly scraped through the bottom on my 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse when someone did a parking lot hit and run and I had the bumper cover replaced.