Hundai Santa Fe '95 won't start

hyundai
santafe

#1

My (mom’s) Hundai will not start. It tries to turn over but never makes it.

We don’t smell gas, not flooded, might be the fuel pump. The code sensor device will not give a code to indicate a specific problem.

In the past, the car will give a static shock every time you get out and push door closed.

Very difficult to start and gas must be pumped to start after gassing up.

Also, a bell (ding sound) rings at random even if the car is driving.

I know this is a lot but does anyone have a suggestion what to look at next?


#2

Try turning the ignition switch on so the dash lights come on for two seconds, and then turn the ignition switch off.

Repeat this a half dozen times and then try starting the engine.

If the engine starts right up, there’s a problem with the fuel pump assembly.

Tester


#3

I also think this looks off but don’t know what it is or if it’s supposed to be open like that.


#4

That has to be reconnected.

That’s either intake or the outlet for the air filter housing.

Tester


#5

Ok, thanks we will try that. There is also a fuse missing.


#6

F/PumpCHK is what the box cover said should go there.


#7

There’s no missing fuse.

I recommend that you bring it to a shop and explain the problem.

Tester


#8

I agree with tester on both points.
I’m unable to access a '95 Santa Fe diagram, but it sure looks to me like the disconnected “tube” is part of the induction system, and if it’s aft of the mass airflow sensor the ECU will not know there’s air passing through the induction system (that leak is big enough to supply the cylinders all by itself) and the engine won’t run. Reconnect it and post back.

Re: the “missing fuse” in the underhood fuse box, that may or may not mean something. I see three, the one you’re pointing at, one in the “field of blue boxes”, and another empty well next to the diode (the thing with the white arrow). But this is very common. Fuseboxes are made to accommodate various options that you may not have, design changes as the model evolves can leave empty wells, and they can even be used for different models, and that can leave unused holes. There’s really no way of knowing without more detailed technical information about the specific vehicle. Since it ran before, I’m inclined to think that one is intentionally left empty.

A competent shop can access the information to check these things out. He can also do things like test for fuel availability and spark availability. And battery strength.

This might suggest that the pump has been slowly dying and has finally met its end. Be sure you tell the mechanic at the shop everything you can, and let him find out why. Bring notes if you feel it’ll help you.


#9

“Reconnect it and post back.”

Tried to connect, couldn’t get it to stay even when we reconnected with clamping round screw brace it just slid back open. We put duct tape around it but it didn’t help/start. But we kinda saw that coming. We will have it toed to mechanic shortly.


#10

“Try turning the ignition switch on so the dash lights come on for two seconds, and then turn the ignition switch off.
Repeat this a half dozen times and then try starting the engine.”

It almost started after we tried this but still didn’t turn over.


#11

Sounds like a shop diagnostic is the best bet. An air leak like that could indeed cause the engine not to start, or if it starts, to run very erratically. the shop will do a visual inspection, fix anything obvious, then they’ll do some tests to decide if it is a spark or fuel problem.


#12

Another idea: If that air leak has been allowing unfiltered air into the throttle body for any length of time, you could have a dirty airflow sensor. That won’t always bring up a diagnostic code, as the engine computer hasn’t a good way to test the calibration of the airflow sensor.