How, exactly is the torque converter sealed to prevent external leaks?

This is in regard to a 1993 Dodge Shadow with a 2.5L engine and 3-speed automatic transmission.

When the engine is running, the transmission fluid leaks between the engine and transmission.

Is there a replaceable seal, or does the torque converter itself need to be replaced?

Once the motor and transmission are pulled, is it very difficult to remove and reinstall a torque converter onto a transmission? E.g. alignment.

There’s a seal. Have you looked at youtubes? Gotta be some.

That indicates the front seal for the torque converter is leaking.

Tester

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Is this seal part of the torque converter, or is it located behind the torque converter? Does this seal come with a new torque converter?

No, it is pressed into the front of the transmission.

Yes.

No

Once the engine and transmission is separated. The torque convertor is un-bolted from the flexplate (flywheel) and comes out with the transmission. The convertor is slid out of the front of the transmission and the seal is right there on the trans. When the convertor goes back in, push gently while rotating so the splines and drive lugs engage. You’ll feel that and the convertor will slide further into the trans… don’t force it!

It is a lot of work to GET to that seal. It is easy to change but… If the rear main seal on the engine is the similar kind not needing an oil pan drop, replace that, too.

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It’s located on transmission behind the torque converter,

Didn’t you watch the video?

Tester

Short answer as already giving is yes, the front pump to converter seal…

Very long answer is there are multiple seals/gaskets that it can leak from…

070 the front pump or converter seal is the most common to leak.

034 is the front pump (converter) bushing, it can be worn and be the cause of the front pump seal to leak, but the seal can also just be bad/worn out… The (torque) converter drive hub can be grooved and can also damage the seal…the hub is what drives the pump gears (530)…

Not shown in the pic, each of the front pump bolts (777) can have a gasket that can leak..

311 is the (outer) pump body (square cut) O-ring can leak…

310 is the pump (for fluid passage) case gasket can leak…

Pic is of your A413 front pump assembly…

Installing the torque converter:
You have 3 steps you should feel/hear/feel when installing/sliding the converter in the bell housing,

1st one is pretty easy and it is to engage the splined input shaft into the converter,

2nd a tad harder is getting the converter to engage the stator (520) in the converter,

3rd is the hardest, and sometimes can be very aggravating as the 2 slots (or flat spots depending) have to line up with the notches in the (inner/drive 530) pump gear, you can with good lighten eyeball line up the pump gears and clock the converter (hub) to be able to engage if the old school spinning the converter does work, sometimes turning the transmission bell housing straight up will help with stabbing (installing) the torque converter…

Now the converter should be recessed into the bell housing about a 1/2ish inch give or take, if not and you bolt the trans up at minimum you will not be able to spin the converter, worst case you bust the front pump gears and or the pump body and or stator… .

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TMI? Naaaah, not for someone doing the work or anyone contemplating a similar job. Good tutorial.

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Just a word of caution, if you go to the work of gaining access to it, just replace it. I had one fail and spewed debris through the trans, requiring an overhaul. Then again on arevreasonably cheap and don’t last forever.

Hi. This Dodge Shadow currently has 91,489 miles on it, and it has been kept in a garage, so the paint and interior are like new. I assume the leak is from the ā€œtorque converter shaft sealā€, and the part number I found online is National 331228H.

Since this car is in excellent condition other than this problem, I would like to do the proper repairs which will make it reliable. So if replacing other seals in this transmission would be useful, that’s not a problem. A new torque converter is not expensive, so if that would be useful, that’s not a problem either.

Anyone here have experience with removing and reinstalling the torque converter on this type of transmission? Does it automatically seat to the proper depth on the input shaft?

This video shows how to replace the torque converter seal, which is mounted on the transmission once the transmission is removed.

If you still don’t get it, you shouldn’t attempt this repair.

Tester

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Did you not watch the video Tester posted, and the my post about installing the converter???

Here it is again

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I have to give @bcohen2010 some credit for NOT claiming the Dodge Shadow is one of the best cars everšŸ˜‰

Everyone knows that’s the 1997 Camry

DuhšŸ˜…

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Well, to be fair, I would love to have a 1997-98 Toyota Camry ā€œCEā€ with the automatic transmission and not much else. However, on the rare occasions that I have seen such models offered for sale, they had well over 250,000 miles, so not enough ā€œmeat on the ā– ā– ā– ā– ā€ to justify buying and fixing. This Dodge Shadow was a rare opportunity, as it belonged to an elderly person who reached the end of their driving years. A Dodge Shadow is a somewhat unique vehicle, as it looks like an ordinary sedan, but itā€s actually a hatchback, and the styling has really held up well.

I don’t understand you . . .

The Dodge Shadow was not considered a great vehicle when it was new

I knew people who bought them new because they could not afford to buy something better. That was the ONLY reason

Why are you so interested in it now?

About 55 years ago, a friend and I replaced a PowerGlide transmission in a 63 Chevy with a working used transmission. (On our backs on the ground with a small floor jack.)

We didn’t notice that we didn’t seat the torque converter properly. When we got the car back together, it wouldn’t move at all. To fix it, we removed the transmission, correctly seated the torque converter, replaced the transmission, and it ran fine.

Fortunately those PowerGlide transmissions were easy to R&R.

Was this cast iron or aluminum?

Good question. I never gave it much thought, assuming it was aluminum.

Doing a little research now shows the switch to aluminum happened in 1962. And I do remember it had a removable oil pan, so it must have been aluminum.

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