This is in regard to a 1993 Dodge Shadow with a 2.5L engine and 3-speed automatic transmission.
When the engine is running, the transmission fluid leaks between the engine and transmission.
Is there a replaceable seal, or does the torque converter itself need to be replaced?
Once the motor and transmission are pulled, is it very difficult to remove and reinstall a torque converter onto a transmission? E.g. alignment.
There’s a seal. Have you looked at youtubes? Gotta be some.
That indicates the front seal for the torque converter is leaking.
Tester
Is this seal part of the torque converter, or is it located behind the torque converter? Does this seal come with a new torque converter?
No, it is pressed into the front of the transmission.
Yes.
No
Once the engine and transmission is separated. The torque convertor is un-bolted from the flexplate (flywheel) and comes out with the transmission. The convertor is slid out of the front of the transmission and the seal is right there on the trans. When the convertor goes back in, push gently while rotating so the splines and drive lugs engage. You’ll feel that and the convertor will slide further into the trans… don’t force it!
It is a lot of work to GET to that seal. It is easy to change but… If the rear main seal on the engine is the similar kind not needing an oil pan drop, replace that, too.
It’s located on transmission behind the torque converter,
Didn’t you watch the video?
Tester
Short answer as already giving is yes, the front pump to converter seal…
Very long answer is there are multiple seals/gaskets that it can leak from…
070 the front pump or converter seal is the most common to leak.
034 is the front pump (converter) bushing, it can be worn and be the cause of the front pump seal to leak, but the seal can also just be bad/worn out… The (torque) converter drive hub can be grooved and can also damage the seal…the hub is what drives the pump gears (530)…
Not shown in the pic, each of the front pump bolts (777) can have a gasket that can leak..
311 is the (outer) pump body (square cut) O-ring can leak…
310 is the pump (for fluid passage) case gasket can leak…
Pic is of your A413 front pump assembly…
Installing the torque converter:
You have 3 steps you should feel/hear/feel when installing/sliding the converter in the bell housing,
1st one is pretty easy and it is to engage the splined input shaft into the converter,
2nd a tad harder is getting the converter to engage the stator (520) in the converter,
3rd is the hardest, and sometimes can be very aggravating as the 2 slots (or flat spots depending) have to line up with the notches in the (inner/drive 530) pump gear, you can with good lighten eyeball line up the pump gears and clock the converter (hub) to be able to engage if the old school spinning the converter does work, sometimes turning the transmission bell housing straight up will help with stabbing (installing) the torque converter…
Now the converter should be recessed into the bell housing about a 1/2ish inch give or take, if not and you bolt the trans up at minimum you will not be able to spin the converter, worst case you bust the front pump gears and or the pump body and or stator… .
TMI? Naaaah, not for someone doing the work or anyone contemplating a similar job. Good tutorial.
Just a word of caution, if you go to the work of gaining access to it, just replace it. I had one fail and spewed debris through the trans, requiring an overhaul. Then again on arevreasonably cheap and don’t last forever.
