Truck will start up when cold and idle but when it heats up, which only takes a few minutes, truck quits and will only idle but will not rev up. Any thoughts?
How old? Are we talking fuel injected or carburetor here?
What year?
What model?
What engine?
How many miles?
Any recent work been done?
Maybe an 89 like mine, traded in as soon as it started acting up, 2.6 I think, Just started acting like a bad dog and said you are out of here,
Make/model/year of vehicle needed to be of much help here, as posted above. If it’s electronic fuel injection 2000 or newer, my first guess would be a problematic crank position sensor. Those are known to act up when they get hot when they begin to fail.
Might be the same truck as last year;
“Hi, my Dad has a 1992 Toyota Pick-up with a 22RE engine it is a 2 wheel drive automatic.”
You’re a guy named ‘Honda’ who owns a Toyota: it’s jealous: change your name.
I have an '87 Toyota pickup that runs fine, the same compression and gas mileage as new. It’ll be way cheaper to fix than replace - if you want it; even if you don’t want it you’ll get more for it if it works. If you want to give it away, just give it away.
Hey, if someone’s gonna give away a Toyota truck, I’m calling dibs. 
Sorry, it was very late after a lot of research when I posted the question. Yes it is the truck from before, I don’t know the previous work done. The year is 1992, fuel injected, 4 cylinder engine, and over 100,000 miles. Any help would be appreciated.
My first thought is that the throttle position sensor isn’t functioning, which would leave the computer unaware that you’ve pressed the gas pedal. That would mean the computer would not increase the pulsewidth of the injector, leaving the engine starved for fuel when the throttle plate opens and causing it to stall. It’s allowing it to run rich when it’s cold, letting it idle when the temp[ sensor tells the computer to go to its “cold default setting” (my words), but not allowing sufficient fuel increase when the plate’s opened.
Someone’s going to have to look at this hands-on. Do you have a trusted shop that can monitor the throttle plate voltage when the plate’s opened?
My Corolla is of similar vintage, w/4afe engine. I don’t think the TPS on the 4afe is what the computer uses to set the injector pulse width. It only provides info on whether the throttle is fully released (idling) or wide open. It’s a switch, not a variable resistor. How it works on the 22re, not sure. But checking the TPS is usually a pretty easy thing for a diy’er to do if they know how to use a volt-ohm meter.
Here’s some ideas beyond the tps, assuming the basic engine maintenance is up to date and no diagnostic codes present
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visually check to make sure when you press on the gas pedal the throttle valve is actually moving in a corresponding way. On the 4afe there’s a semi-circular plate on the throttle body that you can see rotate without having to remove the air intake boot to actually look at the throttle plate.
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verify both the MAP and brake booster hold vacuum
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is there any gasoline in the vacuum line attached to the fuel pressure regulator? if so the regulator is shot.
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check base engine timing and timing advance operation with a timing light
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fuel pressure test
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could be a clogged cat. Try removing the pre-cat O2 sensor as a test to partially bypass the cat, does it run much better that way?
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the ecm waits for the engine to warm up before using the o2 sensor readings to adjust injector pulse width. It could have something to do with that, since the symptom occurs once the engine warms up. This would usually turn on a check engine light and set some codes.