About as much point as to baton twirling (and cheerleader stunts). Just more “exciting.” (check Youtube). It is thrilling to watch, but I feel about it the same way as I do about fireworks: for all the chemicals, smoke and fire danger as well as burns and lost digits involved, I would sooner watch LED-enabled drones “perform” fireworks. As a species we do evolve, but sometimes slowly.
Its not me making the comment about Mazda real servicing costs, but the mechanic on a French ( Quebec) automotive review show RPM+.
I also take the lifetime maintenance costs with a grain of salt. I have not sat in a dealer’s service area for a while, but last time I did I was a bit surprised at all the $600-800 invoices being handed out for brake work on 3 year old cars that was not covered by warranty…
Also one way they lower maintenance is to extend fluid change intervals. If you change the oil change interval to 10K from 6K or 3K, you will spend less on oil changes in the early years, you might also be seriously reducing the potential longevity of your engine. There are trade offs being made, and the marketing and sales desire to promote a better maintenance price point may not be what mechanics and engineers think is the best practice.
That’s what we used to say in the 90s. Hello minivan and the birth of most suvs.
I’ve always followed the manufacturer’s recommended motor oil interval and never had bad consequences. We also keep our cars for at least 10 years, running up about 180,000 miles each on the last two.
And why do you feel brake pads and rotors should be covered under warranty . . . ?!
Seems to me if you drive a car enough to use up a set of pads and rotors, that should NOT be warrantable . . .
+1
Unless brake components are defective from the day a vehicle was delivered, brake repairs are not considered to be a warranty item. Brakes, along with clutches, are “wear” items whose life varies considerably from one owner to another. “Wear” items are not covered by new car warranties.
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The $600-800 for brake work done by a dealer on a 3 year old car is the problem - not the fact that brakes wear. The price is the problem.
I seem to recall that these parts are covered, but for a much shorter time than the rest of the car. I believe 12 months or 12,000 miles. I could be wrong, however.
Brake pads, wiper blades and key fob batteries were a separate warranty on my Forrester. not sure that every brand does the same.
Some dealers give you a break, Pitted rotors at 13k miles, replaced for free, corroded rotors after 3k miles on CPO 1/2 price.
We’ve discussed this several times over the years
Dealerships have massive overhead compared to other shops
Of course they charge more
If they start using inferior parts, hire even less skilled guys than they do now . . . which is a subject unto itself, in my opinion . . . and drastically lower their hourly rates . . . then at the end they’ve got absolutely nothing to differentiate themselves from everybody else. At which point they may as well just close up shop, crawl under a rock and die
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I thought he was making the point of ‘why are these folks going to the dealer for brakes out of warranty, when an independent shop would do as good a job for less’.
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Actually the point was people buy a new car with a warranty and pie in the sky maintenance costs. Having the brakes taken apart and relubed is a recommended service that everyone passes on for the most part, and its not pushed in the early years. It takes extra time and adds to the servicing costs. The result at some point is sticking brake pads or caliper pins, uneven wear, warped rotors and a 600 to 800 brake job in year 3 of ownership.
Anyway back to the main topic-- Buy the Forester its the more capable vehicle, and will shine more off paved roads, and in rotten weather.
Seriously ? Where does that come from ? Our 10 year old Volvo has not had brake problems and no the brakes have not been taken apart and lubed . Same goes for the Kia we had for 18 years .
Are you just making stuff up?
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Pretty much any winter market where salt is used on the roads extensively in winter.
Here is some reading for you
I will say this brake engineering is pretty amazing, in that they will still often work even if you have 3 caliper pins seized. I very much doubt that your Volvo brakes normally at 100% if they haven’t been serviced in 10 years.
Live in PA plenty of winter salt usage, I’ve never had my brakes taken apart and relubed…I’ll lube stuff myself when I do a brake job (usually every 1.5-3 years on my Focus). Never had an issue with the pads, caliper pins, wear, or rotors…
You are lucky. It is a good service practice. I am in Canada and have experienced the issues described in the article I provided the link to.
I prefer to err on the side of more rather than less maintenance. Works for me.
I doubt it’s luck, and as Pennsylvania requires state inspection yearly (including an examination of the pad and rotor condition and thickness) I think I can definitely say I have professional assessment to back that up. I’d love to hear thoughts from some of our other regulars who live in the salt belt too.
Cleaning the caliper pin/slides is a common service but not always necessary, if you replace your brakes every 1 1/2 years then you are lubricating the calipers more often then most people.
This is a dealer recommended 15,000 mile service for a 2017 Lexus;
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Tire Rotation
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Comprehensive Multi-Point Vehicle Inspection
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Replace Smart Key Battery
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Re-Torque Drive Shaft Nuts & Bolts
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Replace Front Wiper Inserts
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Replace Rear Wiper Insert
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Clean Battery & Seal Terminals
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Caliper Slide Clean & Lube
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Inspect Brake Pads, Shims and Rotors
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Fill Fluids To Proper Levels As Needed
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Reset Maintenance Reminder Light (If Applicable)
I live in salt country, and I don’t make it a point to lube slides on a preventative level. But probably should. If I make any other repairs that require me to remove the calipers I do take time to lube. When I worked in the shop, there were countless times brake jobs had to be done because of frozen slides snd\or pins.
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