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Got a grinding noise and a P1111 code?

 I got a Automatic trans. 04 Sentra and it's been making a grinding noise (sounds like when a car sits for months and has rust

on rotors). Mainly I hear it the first 30 mins (off a cold start) of steady driving till it gets really warmed up, and noise fades away I guess
that I can hear. I hear it more at the beginning of each shift. If I have to press the gas a little to gain some speed i hear it but if
I press the gas just to have the car coast at the same speed, I don’t really hear it much in the first 30 mins off cold start. And it’s
heard just when I press the gas while driving. I think I am hearing a little of it at cold starts idling or even revving the engine then
but its much more noticeable while driving till car gets really warmed up.
I also got a P1111 code (Pending code, there’s no engine light)
just looking to see if this could be related to each other? And what to look for in the grinding noise and the pending P1111 code?
I got a recording of me driving about 20 mph and stepping on and off the gas.

Can;t open it.

That code is indicative of a problem with a solenoid in the engine’s variable valve timing mechanism, and that problem is almost always caused by dirty oil. How often do you change the engine’s oil, in terms of both odometer mileage and elapsed time?

(Hint: If you do mostly local, short-trip driving, you should be changing the oil on the basis of elapsed time, rather than on the basis of odometer mileage.)


before changing oil, would it make sense to have some flushing agent added to motor oil for ~100 miles to flush gunk from passages?
something like

IMHO, I think that an IMMEDIATE oil change is in order, followed by the addition of something like Marvel Mystery Oil, with another oil change after a couple of weeks.

here they found worn timing chain to affect performance alot, but even after fix P1111 was not resolved

that would be ideal, I did the same to my 2006 Pathfinder right after buying it: fresh inexpensive oil with MMR, until it stops getting dark shortly after replacement

Since a prematurely-worn timing chain is also usually the result of ridiculously-long oil change intervals, I think that this was a case of locking the barn door after the horse had escaped.

VDCdriver I do, do alot of short trip driving and Nissan recommends changing at 3750 miles. And the car was making that sound even before the most recent oil change, more noticable now. Does it sound like the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid need to get changed and will get rid of the pending code and grinding noise?

is it 1.8 or 2.5 liter engine?

if 1.8 one, access to the timing chain is quite easy: simply undo 7 or 8 bolts on timing cover and you have it as you see in the pictures posted at thread I posted.
either chain is firm and tight or you have your answer.
gasket is rubber and usually can be reused, at least 2002 Sentra of my daughter did not leak when I needed to get it removed and then put back the original one, worst case: use silicone gasket maker in addition to gasket

if it is indeed chain tension problem, replacing VVT Solenoid will not help.
getting an insides look/picture would help in determining how gunked your engine is

…and they do do also have an oil change recommendation based on elapsed time.

If you do a lot of short-trip driving, changing the oil on the basis of odometer mileage is going to cause all sorts of engine problems, with resulting big repair costs. Take a look at the Nissan maintenance schedule, and see what the elapsed time factor for oil changes might be. More than likely, it is going to be something like…every 4 months. Do you adhere to their elapsed time specification?

I do stay on top of changing the oil from miles and months because this car gets driven alot in city. The only thing I did switch over to bosch filters from fram and 5 months after that switch I start hearing the noise.

used both, never had any problems

bosch body is bigger, presumably media matherial size is bigger too, so unlikley to be the factor

So I tested the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid on a multimeter and it put out 10.4 ohm, I imagine it’s a decent reading? I put some power to it from the battery of the car and it was shifting back and forth and 1/8-1/4 of and inch. So it seems like the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid is good, what do you guys think?

Now I was trying to take off the valve cover to take a peek at the time chain but the cover is not budging. Screws are out 9 on the outside and 2 in the middle near the oil cap. On the two corners on the right side near the screws, the cover in sits in pins. Whats the best way to take off a stuck valve cover?

And if you think the Variable Valve Timing Solenoid is good is it almost a definite the timing chain is problem, making the grinding noise and the p1111 code?

For the 1.8L engine there’s a TSB related to this you might want to take a look at. EM06-005a/NTB06-079a/January 24, 2008. It says the first things to do is make sure the engine oil is at the proper level, and the oil pressure is correct as measured with a shop gauge at the pressure switch port. Checking for camshaft sprocket rattle noise is also advised.

I’m seeing 8 ohms spec’d for the resistance , but nothing about the throw distance when acutated. I expect from what you say the vvt intake selonoid isn’t the problem. Suggest to focus on the oil quality, oil level, and oil pressure first. vvt engines are much more sensitive to oil than non-vvt engine. & don’t discount the possibility of this being a transmission problem rather than an engine problem.

Just want to add, I been doing some research online and read that a bad harmonic balancer is related to timing chain issues. A good year or two ago before this grinding noise been happening, I noticed the harmonic balance spins wobbly after the car been drive for a while but noticed off cold starts it spins straight. I did my drive belt couple months ago and the harmonic balancer had no play when I put my hands on it.

Also anyone have any tips on taking a stuck valve cover off?

When things like that get stuck for me, I bang it lightly with a plastic or rubber hammer, applying the force in a direction where it puts a shear force at where I expect it will come apart.