My fan is running but If I can hold my fan and turn the car on and it doesn spin then does that mean the fan is no good its jus really free spinning? and when I let the fan go it starts to turn! Could a power steering leak cus the over heating?
You have a hydraulic fan on that model, and it is known to be troublesome. It is not connected to the power steering. It has its own hydraulic pump. The most common problem is that the speed control solenoid on the pump gets stuck or otherwise fails. It is difficult to replace, but it can be. Most dealers will want to replace everything for a few thousand.
You can test the fan by turning the AC on. As soon as you turn the AC on, it should go to high speed operation. If it doesn’t, your solenoid is bad at the very least.
I replace the pump on the fan so the pump is wking! I jus order a new fan and motor complete but yes I have replace the fan pump cost a lot but its done! Even thou I replace the car was still over heating so someone told me might be y fan not wkin properly?
I turn the car on yesterday and sit and watch the fan waited4 about 15mins heard the fan goin full blast which I have never heard that fan go on rare till yesterday! But it stay on jus a while not long enough to keep the car cool as it turn off I went and ck the degas were u put water in it was very hot still wantin to come out! The fan should of still been running I think to cool the car down it didn it jus slow down and ran at that speed so I’m thinkin as well its not wking right! What u think? Could the temp sensor have sumthin to do with the fan not wkin right as well!
If you haven’t replaced your degas bottle, you need it. It’s cracked. You may not see a leak, but it keeps it from pressurizing. Also, sometimes the metal tube inside falls loose. When that happens, it lets air into the cooling system. You should also check all the plastic cooling system parts in the front of the engine. Those are well known to crack too. You maybe should do a pressure test.
Since your fan goes to high speed, that’s almost certainly not where the problem is.
Ok that I haven’t changed yet I think I might need2 y right could have a crack wouldn dought it! Ok I’m gonna try that as well!
A power steering leak won’t make any car overheat. It will make it lose power steering, and make a mess on the driveway.
It’s normal for a “clutch fan” to freewheel when you first start the car. When the fluid in the clutch mechanism heats up, then the fan will start to spin with the engine, increasingly faster as the heat builds up. If the car is hot, you should have more difficulty holding it in place, but it will still slip somewhat.
Is your car overheating? Have other things such as the thermostat and radiator been checked?
I agree with Tardis as usual. My son and daughter in law had an '01 LS that was overheating for no obviously apparent reason and it was caused by a cracked bottle, with the bottle and crack location making it near impossible to inspect.
You might inspect the area on the bottom of the car right behind the driver’s side front wheel for any signs of dampness. This is where they will leak.
Oblivion, there is no fan clutch on this car.
The 2000-2002 LS has a hydraulic fan.
The 2003-2006 LS has an electric fan.
Neither has a fan clutch, as it is not needed. The PCM controls the speed of the hydraulic fan by controlling the flow of hydraulic (Mercon or Mercon V in this case) fluid. The speed of the electronic fan is controlled by commands from the PCM in the form of a PWM signal.
If that fan is driven via a hydraulic motor…then there MUST be a sensor to tell that motor how much force to apply to the hydro motor…look into this. It could not be permitted to run at full blast all the time…I know for sure that it must have a sensor that tells the pump how much fluid to apply to spinning that fan…if you are noticing issues with its speed…then this has to be it…
Blackbird,
The LS PCM uses the cylinder head temperature sensor to determine engine temperature. The PCM sends a PWM signal to a solenoid on the hydraulic pump that ultimately controls how fast the fan runs. While hydraulic fan problems are common, the OP has already replaced the pump and had confirmed that the fan is operating correctly.
Even more common than the fan problems is the fact that the degas bottles crack after a few years. These cracks let air into the cooling system, and that causes overheating.
It seems that the OP might do better to go to one of the two big LS specific forums or maybe one of the Jaguar S-Type forums on the web.
I saw mention of this bottle a few x…what the hell is it…I thought at first it was a reference to the A/C system…and didnt see how it could be related.
So you are saying that the ECU uses data from a temp switch to control a flow valve…this is where I would be looking if the fan speed wasnt at the proper level…NO?
Oh I see that the OP was holding the fan…probably when it really wasnt supposed to be powered up…and then he said that he heard it at full speed…so yes it seems it is prob working and the first time was just when it wasnt supposed to be spinning much…
Here’s what the degas bottle looks like and Tardis correct about this being the cause of the overheating.
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/coolant_expansion_tanks/coolant_reservoir.html?3593=48079
Thats an overflow container…NO?..What does this have to do with the fan speed? Are you guys talking about this bottle because it shows the level of coolant in the vehicle? Low coolant or an air bubble wouldnt be good for that sensor that controls the hydro solenoid…If the temp sensor isnt submerged in coolant the ecu wouldnt know the engine temp and subsequently not know how to control the hydro solenoid…Thats the only coorelation I can make with that as a part suspect. Oh well… I think the OP has a working unit and just isnt familiar with its normal operation.
As odd as it may sound a razor crack in one of those bottles will cause overheating. The one that was in my son’s LS was cracked and would cause erratic overheating problems even with a near full coolant level.
In his case, it was so slight that there was no noticeable drip under the car at all. The only way of telling was because of a small damp area and the paint in that area wrinkling a little due to continued exposure to hot coolant.
That bottle is buried in the car and any crack cannot be seen until the bottle is removed.
It is not an overflow bottle. It is a pressurized (the radiator cap goes on top of it) reservoir with some internal plumbing to remove air from the cooling system, that’s why it’s called a degas bottle. Cracks prevent the cooling system from pressurizing and allow air to get trapped in it.
They crack after some number of hot/cold cycles.
Ah hah…kinda like the ones on all BMW’s…and my VW GTi… I understand… Those are very common now…duh
Yes I ve been having this problem w my car 4 a while no one could tell me what was wrong with the car! So I started replacing all kinds of parts radiator new water pump ahh thermista and a new pump for the fan it self I even bought a new top for the degas bottle! I just couldn figure it out! So now I went and bought me a new fan and motor! But all this talk about the degas bottle I’m thinkin of buy a new one way be4 I put that new fan on! Might be the problem I can always return the fan bk! Cus my fan is running and turns on after a while of been on but my car still over heats in 15min after all this new parts its still acting up last thing I haven’t done is the fan and motor and degas bottle so I’m gonna change that first like I said see what happens
The degas bottle is a common cause of overheating.
If yours is more than five years old, it is certain to be cracked.
Here are instructions on the correct way to bleed the cooling system after replacement.
I stand corrected… it sounded like a clutch fan from the description. Hydraulic fan speed control… sounds like an over-complicated way of getting the job done.