Hi there,
I snapped my peugeot 206 20012 1600cc breather hose yesterday (picture below), would fixing this with a resistant epoxy glue or some heat resistant silicone glue do the trick?
Thanks for your time!
Glue won’t work. Try silicone repair tape. It’s made for jobs like that and is heat resistant to 500 F.
Don’t use anything that contains silicone unless it states it’s sensor-safe.
Ordinary silicone will damage O2 sensors as it off gasses and gets pulled into the engine.
Tester
Adhesives alone won’t work. You need a sleeve over the break. Try a common tape like duct tape first. Kapton tape will handle the temperature, but it is expensive and may be hard to find. Poke around your local home supply store and see what they have.
Part of the problem is to seal over the corrugated surface. If you can’t get a good seal, there could be a lot of blow-by. You will have to clean the corrugated surface well. It would be best to remove the hose and give it a good soaking in an appropriate cleaner.
You might try peeling what’s left of the hose off and replacing it with a short length of heater hose and a couple of screw clamps. Screw clamps should be snugged up only; not severely tightened.
I’ve been using silicone tape for all kinds of applications since 1971… when I first became familiar with it. We used it in the Air Force to wrap repaired wiring harnesses on our B52 bombers. It’s almost impossible to find in civilian life, but I just discovered that WalMart now carries it in their automotive department. In its tape form, outgassing will not be a problem.
It’s fun to use. It stretches and sticks only to itself, there’s zero adhesive, and it sticks tenaciously to itself for all eternity. Once it’s stuck to itself you’d have difficulty unwrapping it. I’ve tried many times in the past and always had to cut it off.
However, if there’s deterioration of the hose and/or mechanical stresses that caused the breakage, it should only be considered a temporary fix. It’s not strong mechanically, and, like all elastomers, it will cold flow (stretch and move due to the mechanical stresses) over time. You might want to browse the shelves at an auto store, or even a big-box hardware store, to look for a permanent replacement. OK4450’s heater hose idea is a good one if you can get it to kit over the ends. Avoid polyethylene, like the clear fishtank hose, as it will be attacked by the hydrocarbons in the crankcase fumes.
I agree about avoiding polyethylene hose. That stuff will fossilize quickly and cease to seal.
That shouldn’t be an expensive part to replace, If you live someplace you can buy a Peugeot car you should be able to buy a Peugeot part.
I agree
If you live in a country that sells Peugeot . . . we don’t know where you live . . . you should just replace that hose
Or order it online
If none of those are an option, you could bridge the break with black vinyl electrical tape
But it would only be a stopgap repair until you replace the part
Go to any hardware store and get some heat shrink tubing. It comes in diameters up to 1" in diameter at most hardware stores, larger if you order online. You can shrink it with a heat gun, hair drier, propane torch or even a lighter or match if your careful. If the ribbing of the hose is spiral, you could mix a little 2 part epoxy, quick set type is OK, and make a bead at each end of the heat shrink.
I find the largest piece of tubing that would fit inside, then tape (silicone tape sounds good) the two ends together with the tubing inside.
Aluminum tubing perhaps, but the heat shrink will shrink and come loose from the heat of he engine.
I don’t think you’ll be successful trying to glue the two ends together, just not enough surface area. If you decided to try it anyway, suggest to use JB Weld Original. You’ll have to figure out a way to clamp the two surfaces together, as it has to set up for 24 hours. For this application I’d let it set up 48 hours at least.
If I had this problem myself, what I’d do it remove the hose and take it to my local independent auto parts store. They might have on hand or know of something they can order that would fit the bill. If not, I’d see if there is something stocked at a hardware store. Flexible aluminum dryer vent hose, the rigid equivalent, and maybe as a fix of the existing pipe, I’d look in the plumbing section at those metal-sleeve reinforced neoprene sleeves plumbers us to joint two pieces of no-hub cast iron pipe. Not sure if neoprene will stand up to that environment though.
I can see patching it until a new part arrives, but I wouldn’t count on it holding up long.
I’d just find a tube that fits inside pretty snug and then use electrical tape. But just as I await the new part to arrive. I hose that short must not cost much.
Yosemite
“Aluminum tubing perhaps, but the heat shrink will shrink and come loose from the heat of he engine.”
It’s called heat shrink, not heat loosen. If you coat the inside ends of the heat shrink with 2 part epoxy just before you shrink it, it will be a permanent repair.
I understood the post to be suggesting putting the tubing inside the broken line and taping outside. If that’s done, the heat shrink will shrink. And it will become loose inside the broken line. You may have noticed that the line has circumferential convolutions? Epoxy won’t prevent the heatshrink from shrinking at the convolutions’ larger diameters. It will not e glued to the line there.
I stand by my post. Grab a piece of convoluted wire wrap and a piece of heat shrink that fits inside and try it if you doubt me. Be sure to heat it.
I think they meant for the heat shrink tubing to go on the outside. I referred to putting a tube on the inside, but meant something stiff.
This is about the most uncritical service there is, so anything that’ll contain the low pressure would work, like a long piece of tubing on the inside and some tape on the outside.
Yes, I meant for the heat shrink to go on the outside. There are heat shrink splices (Raychem) that have an epoxy barrier on the inner lip of the ends of the heat shrink that is heat activated so when the splice is heated, it forms a complete environmental seal. You can simulate the same thing with 2 part epoxy.
You can also reinforce the splice with a second heat shrink tube, but the outer tube needs to be a little shorter than the inner tube and both must be applied at the same time. The outer one will not need the epoxy seals on the end. If the convoluted tubing is concentric rings, it will not need the epoxy either, only if it is spiral convolutions.
BTW, those are manufactured and swaged lines, they are not going to be cheap to replace.
In that case, I withdraw my comments. Apologies for the misunderstanding.
Keith, I suspect you’re right about the lines. Dedicated designed parts not intended to be inventoried en-masse in the repair parts chain are generally very highly priced. The more I think about it, a short piece of thin-walled aluminum tubing properly sized with a silicone tape wrap, or even heat shrink of the outside, just might effect a permanent repair. It’s what I might do. I’d use the silicone tape. Personal preference. I like silicone tape.
The more I think about it, OP should just buy a Peugeot hose and be done with it
