Engine Restore - too good to be true?

Any pictures on filled areas to prove the claim by any chance?

Wow… I do not know what to tell, but to agree with @MikeInNH above…

Wow! Report me as spam…that’s pretty low. Can you show me it has high viscosity like a lot of people are claiming and that’s why it increases compression? Absolutely not because it’s about like 10w30. Sheesh. Not my video but similar results.

This may be late but my story is below and hard to believe…

I had P300 Random misfire on a couple cylinders. Replaced or eliminated Air Manifold Gasket/Leak, Air Pressure good, Smoke Test Pass, Fuel Pressure good, NOID Test Pass, Fuel Injectors replaced, new Plugs and Cables, new Coils, new Throttle Body, new MAF sensor, new CAM Position Sensor, new cable harness to coils, cylinder pressure tests all passed (C1 slightly low). Basically everything except O2 Sensors, CAM, Lifters, or Computer.

UPDATE 11/26/19 - over summer I kept testing and purchased new CAM, Lifters, Spings, Head Gaskets, from 1AAuto. Was waiting on cooler temps (now) to do work but in August added an oil treatment called “RESTORE” to oil change. Dealer does changes as I have $10 lifetime changes. Dealer left off a plug (think on purpose) and after getting home found it arcing bad to block. I plugged it back on plug.

WOW FACTOR- Its my wife’s car and I did not do much until end of September. We had to get state inspection but EL was off. I cleared codes to get inspection and it worked. EXCEPT now EL has never returned and today I plugged in Torque Scanner and after 20 miles of testing not 1 misfire and STFT perfect near 0, and LTFT and O2 ranges good.

It’s almost as though RESTORE fixed my issue but I just cannot believe it!!! I wonder if the arcing plug caused a computer reset that might have worked? It makes no sense to me and I have $700 of parts in a box…

PLEASE ANY FEEDBACK ?? I feel
I am losing my sanity on this as I just cannot believe an oil additive was the fix!!!

I’ll play the devil’s advocate. If he doesn’t use the product, what are his options other than replacing the engine which is not worth doing IMO on a car of that vintage?

You nailed it. I was going to send the heads off with new springs to have them rebuilt and tested. While they were at shop I was going to replace the cam and lifters and clean up (a little) the top of piston/cylinders.

But before I started the project I used RESTORE and P300 code went away for good. It idles normal now also. Before restore my cylinder pressure testing was around 180 for all except C1. It was 150 but still in spec per AllData. All I can say is for we this RESTORE must have improved my pressure enough to stop the misfires… I may still do the cam, heads project since I have parts that cannot be returned… or just hold them or sell on eBay? not sure yet…

I see . . .

So am I correct in assuming you did not perform a second compression test on cylinder #1 after using restore . . . ?!

Correct … I have not check compression afyer. I may do that just to see what it is now…

Hi Y’all, I saw a Utube on Restore and tried it in a 1982 Dasun Diesel with 225,000 miles that was loosing miles per gallon and excessively smoky on startups. The excessive smoky starts ceased and the smoke chnaged from mostly underburned diesel smoke to black burned rich diesel smoke color. Indiacating better compression. So decide to try it in a couple small engines exhibiting low ring performance. One reduced its blue smoke when under maximum load and the other went from requiring 6 pulls on the rope to start before to starting in two pulls with the restore. Has been positive in everything tried. All were poor ring performance issues. I came on the thread to investigate if anyone had experienced any bad consequences. Other than the possibility of plugged oil filter I didn’t see any. I have a

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Continuing the discussion from [Engine Restore - too good to be true?]

(Engine Restore - too good to be true?):

I have also started a test in my 1994 BMW 740ILwith the 4.0 V8. I had 3 cylinders with issues with the rings at 190,900 Miles. So based upon my experience with a Datsun diesel with 225,000 miles and two Briggs and Stratton small engines I decided to try it in the BMW. Initial results are gain in fuel economy from tank averages in the 16-17 mpg range to the 19-20 mpg range for tank averages. The engine also seems Friskier. I saw a little blue smoke from the car for a few miles right after the adding then it stopped that completely. I haven’t done a repeat compression check yet. I will do that at oil change time.

I tried Restore in my friend’s 2008 Rav-4, and it reduced oil consumption from 1 qt every 350 miles to 1 qt every 450 miles. Not a huge improvement, but an improvement nonetheless.

I just wanted to share some new info. I did learn that bad O2 sensors could cause rich/lean ratios and could also cause P300 random misfires so I replaced the upstream sensors to boot.
My Tahoe ran fine with little to no misfires. About 2 months ago I heard lifter tick. Ran motor flush and on magnetic top of my plug found metal pins. Removed pans and found 16 more pins. Discovered they roller bearings for lifter. Pulled heads and cam and found damaged lifter on cylinder 1 exhaust valve.

But on cam I could see major rutting on cylinder 6 lobe. (See pic).

So if you are having P300 misfires and have replaced O2 sensors, plugs, wires, sensors etc just do it. Pull your cam and look at it. A new one is $300 and easy to install.

I know this is a old post but i recently added a bypass delete in oil filter housing and did oil change and put restore in. My problem with restore is it kept clogging oil filters i changed 3 in one day becuze my oil pressure was dropping slowly. So i would put new filter on and it would be great but only for 20 min.now if i had a bypass it would at least send the unfiltered oil threw motor.(5.3 Silverado) but i didn’t want that thats y i did the delete so now im going to have to do another oil change and filter to get all the restore out.i jst wish that i didnt put royalpurple in it wast of money.

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If your engine has gotten to the point that you’re trying a “Hail Mary In a Can” type product, get the cheapest oil you can find, not the expensive stuff

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You have a great point. I didn’t have the bypass delete option in my tested vehicles and small Briggs and Stratton type engines. The stuff-micro particles of copper, silver and lead-they put in the Restore makes your results very logical. The product is designed for engines that are developing low compression due to worn rings/high miles to nurse a few more miles out of them.

I realize this is an old thread, but I think I have a good test platform for Engine Restore. Recently on a road trip out to the Midwest and back to Colorado, my '08 Honda Ridgeline threw MILs for up/downstream O2 sensor and catalytic converter 30 min from my daughter’s home. Gas mileage went to 5 mpg, oil consumption jumped to a quart per fuel fill-up and idling was very rough. Prior to the trip, 16-18 mpg highway, quart of oil per 3-4k miles, no exhaust smoke and smooth idling and acceleration.

Test of the O2 sensors found they tested fine (continuity & amperage) but voltage response was slow when subject to heating using propane torch. I replaced all oxygen sensors before and after the cats on both banks. O2 sensor engine codes have not returned but catalytic codes have. MPG returned to normal as have idling/acceleration. Oil consumption is about quart 1-2 tankfuls which led me to checking engine compression.

Engine compression (dry) found the following:
Cylinder…Initial crank psi…Final (7th-8th crank) psi
1…100…180
2…100…175
3…100…175
4…60…135
5…110…175
6…100…190

Engine compression (wet) found the following:
4…100…190

Conclusion is worn piston rings on cylinder 4. I will add Engine Restore and recheck engine compression after about 400 miles (one fuel fill-up). I’ll update this post with the results including mpg and engine codes after adding Engine Restore.

Is there are other data/info about the performance I should consider prior/after adding Engine Restore?

I’ve used Engine Restore in my previous vehicles under high mileage conditions ('06 Ridgeline (original owner, 420k miles), '92 Nissan Pathfinder (original owner, 280k) and have been very satisfied with past results of improving engine compression, acceleration and fuel economy. This is the first use of Engine Restore for my '08 Ridgeline (2nd owner, currently 205k). RC

My main worry about trying that sort of product would be how it affected the variable valve timing system. If engine is not so configured, I’d guess it would be worth a try for a temporary fix. Good idea to double check it isn’t clogging the oil filter of course, per above comment. There are some problems magical potion can’t improve.

  • piston rings so severely worn little metal remains
  • piston ring gaps lining up with each other

Disclaimer: Opinion only, I’ve never used any magic-potions in any of my vehicles.

Noted, Thanks. I understand the concern using Engine Restore with Honda’s VTEC system. I had used the product with my first Ridgeline (over half its lifetime) and I had never experienced any issues with clogged oil filters or rough idle/acceleration (in fact just the opposite – wonderful throttle response),

Agree, if it should turn out that the piston ring wear is severe then I wouldn’t expect Restore to have much effect on compression.
RC

This product really does work. I have used it to squeeze a few more years out of worn-out engines, and it really made a positive difference. Using Restore helped calm a loping idle and reduce excessive oil consumption.

From the FAQ on the Engine Restore website:

CAN RESTORE ENGINE RESTORER BE USED IN VVT ENGINES?

RESTORE is safe to use in standard (mechanical) VVT engines, but we do not recommend using Engine Restorer in engines that utilise high pressure engine oil to actuate or regulate the valve timing functions. These engines that use the engine oil as a hydraulic fluid to adjust cam phasing are referred to often as VVTi (Variable Valve Timing Intelligent) engines, but car manufacturers have their own nomenclature for their VVT systems, like BMW VANOS and dual VANOS, Honda VTEC and iVTEC, Mitsubishi MIVEC, Subaru ACVS and AVLS, Fiat MultiAir, Toyota VVTi etc. They all rely very heavily on clean oil of the correct viscosity to provide adequate oil pressure to control the valve timing. Engine sensors are programmed to detect changes in oil viscosity that might suggest dirt, metal debris or contaminants in the oil that could clog oil-ways, contaminate solenoids and cause valve timing to malfunction. The CSL particles in each can of Engine Restorer would be detected by these sensors, triggering the ECU to show an engine management light and possibly engine codes; the engine will run erratically and stall repeatedly - all warnings to stop the engine immediately and not to drive the car until the oil and filter have been changed to remove the Engine Restorer (or other contaminants), and refilled with the recommended specification of oil for your car.

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