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Engine Restore - too good to be true?

I see . . .

So am I correct in assuming you did not perform a second compression test on cylinder #1 after using restore . . . ?!

Correct … I have not check compression afyer. I may do that just to see what it is now…

Hi Y’all, I saw a Utube on Restore and tried it in a 1982 Dasun Diesel with 225,000 miles that was loosing miles per gallon and excessively smoky on startups. The excessive smoky starts ceased and the smoke chnaged from mostly underburned diesel smoke to black burned rich diesel smoke color. Indiacating better compression. So decide to try it in a couple small engines exhibiting low ring performance. One reduced its blue smoke when under maximum load and the other went from requiring 6 pulls on the rope to start before to starting in two pulls with the restore. Has been positive in everything tried. All were poor ring performance issues. I came on the thread to investigate if anyone had experienced any bad consequences. Other than the possibility of plugged oil filter I didn’t see any. I have a

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Continuing the discussion from [Engine Restore - too good to be true?]

(Engine Restore - too good to be true?):

I have also started a test in my 1994 BMW 740ILwith the 4.0 V8. I had 3 cylinders with issues with the rings at 190,900 Miles. So based upon my experience with a Datsun diesel with 225,000 miles and two Briggs and Stratton small engines I decided to try it in the BMW. Initial results are gain in fuel economy from tank averages in the 16-17 mpg range to the 19-20 mpg range for tank averages. The engine also seems Friskier. I saw a little blue smoke from the car for a few miles right after the adding then it stopped that completely. I haven’t done a repeat compression check yet. I will do that at oil change time.

I tried Restore in my friend’s 2008 Rav-4, and it reduced oil consumption from 1 qt every 350 miles to 1 qt every 450 miles. Not a huge improvement, but an improvement nonetheless.

I just wanted to share some new info. I did learn that bad O2 sensors could cause rich/lean ratios and could also cause P300 random misfires so I replaced the upstream sensors to boot.
My Tahoe ran fine with little to no misfires. About 2 months ago I heard lifter tick. Ran motor flush and on magnetic top of my plug found metal pins. Removed pans and found 16 more pins. Discovered they roller bearings for lifter. Pulled heads and cam and found damaged lifter on cylinder 1 exhaust valve.

But on cam I could see major rutting on cylinder 6 lobe. (See pic).

So if you are having P300 misfires and have replaced O2 sensors, plugs, wires, sensors etc just do it. Pull your cam and look at it. A new one is $300 and easy to install.

I know this is a old post but i recently added a bypass delete in oil filter housing and did oil change and put restore in. My problem with restore is it kept clogging oil filters i changed 3 in one day becuze my oil pressure was dropping slowly. So i would put new filter on and it would be great but only for 20 min.now if i had a bypass it would at least send the unfiltered oil threw motor.(5.3 Silverado) but i didn’t want that thats y i did the delete so now im going to have to do another oil change and filter to get all the restore out.i jst wish that i didnt put royalpurple in it wast of money.

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If your engine has gotten to the point that you’re trying a “Hail Mary In a Can” type product, get the cheapest oil you can find, not the expensive stuff

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You have a great point. I didn’t have the bypass delete option in my tested vehicles and small Briggs and Stratton type engines. The stuff-micro particles of copper, silver and lead-they put in the Restore makes your results very logical. The product is designed for engines that are developing low compression due to worn rings/high miles to nurse a few more miles out of them.