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Opinions on "Engine Restore"?

My Honda Civic has lost compression in cylinder number 2 down to about 50 psi. Has anyone had any luck using “Engine Restore”? Here is a link to the product. www.restoreusa.com With a dying engine I figure it is worth trying. Opinions?

I would have to give a big thumbs down on this idea. I just don’t believe additives work. If your compression problem is “valve related” then an additive would have no effect whatsoever.

I think this is a poor substitute for a proper repair or replacement.

Why is your engine on its last leg? Does it have more than 200,000 miles on it? Is it neglected?

“Tester”, one of the highly respected mechanics on this board swears by it…And for $8 it won’t hurt to try it…But I don’t think it will “restore” 70 pounds of lost compression…That’s more likely a valve problem.

Step One. Have your valve clearance checked. Hondas require periodic valve adjustment. It’s in your owners manual under “maintenance”…Then do a “wet” compression test on that cylinder to isolate the problem, rings or valves…

So what is the downside of trying such a product, besides risking a little money? I just put this into my 2001 Silverado with 185,000 miles on the engine. The truck has always used a little oil from when it was new, and I wanted to give this product a try to see if it would cut down on the oil usage. Too soon to tell now how its going. I decided to try it after Tom and Ray mentioned it on one of their shows recently with the same thought - give it a try. The stuff cost me $10 plus tax for the biggest can of the stuff for an 8 cylinder engine.

My friend put that stuff in a Ford 302 after doing an oil change that was smoking a little. About 50 miles later the oil light started coming on at idle which it NEVER did before. I did an oil pressure check and had 5-6 psi at idle and 20 @ 3000 rpm. Turned out the oil filter was all clogged up with that stuff. Changed the oil filter and everything went back to normal. Pressure was 30 psi at idle and 45 psi@@3000 rpm. We cut the filter open and found all this dark green crap coating the element.

There’s a good chance this problem is caused by failure to inspect the valve lash on regular intervals.
Generally an exhaust valve may tighten up a bit and this will cause low compression.

If this is the cause then you can figure on a valve job because the damage is already done.
Pop the valve cover, rotate the engine until that cylinder is at TDC of the power stroke, and note if there is any slight looseness in the rockers. If not, there’s your problem and it’s time to check the bank account.

Restore may aid some in piston ring problems but it won’t do diddly for a valve related problem.

The can I bought, the contents were amber-clear. It looked like 30W motor oil, which is what it probably is…

So what is the downside of trying such a product, besides risking a little money?

The answer to that question is in the post immediately above yours, written by 59thunderbird.

Thanks to all for the quick responses. Caddyman–can you please describe what is a “wet” compression test?

Is this a check as to whether the valves are at fault or the piston and rings are bad without tearing down the engine? Honda dealer recommended a new (used) engine but couldn’t (or wouldn’t) isolate the problem exactly. Is this what they likely would have done?

Engine has only 156k on it. Has had oil/filter changes every 5000 since I bought it “Honda certified” at 62k. Owner’s manual only specifies the valve lash adjustment at 30k and never again afterward.

Remove the spark plug, squirt some heavy oil high into the cylinder and install the pressure gauge and crank the engine. If you gain a lot of compression from the previous test, it is bad rings,if not it is valves.

OT is correct…Oil (wet) will seal the rings but not a “tight” or burned valve…

First, check the valve lash. Then, a wet compression test. What year is the car?? How many miles?? A valve job might be worth it if the car still has enough value…It’s seldom worthwhile to replace an engine in a Civic…

Thanks a lot oldtimer and Caddyman–this is a huge help. It is a 1998 with 156K and in great shape otherwise. I agree that an engine swap is more than the car is worth, but a valve job may be worthwhile so I can keep it as a second car. Is $1000 in the ballpark for a valve job?

I used this product on my engine with fresh and within 2 mins of adding got multiple vanos and camshaft timing code faults . Drained oil installed new vanos solenoids and cam sprockets to het engine to run again . Cant recommend anyone to use this product on an engine with vanos … cost me over $200 in parts doing all the work myself .