I have a 1995 Chrysler Cirrus that wont start. I did the check light code thing and it said Crank shaft position sensor was bad. I had that replaced by a qualified mechanic. He says it has good compression but still won’t catch. He also says that he cant get a digital readout and that I should take it to the dealership.
What else can I check before paying to have it towed again this time to the dealership? Can I simply swap used ECM from a same model car, to get a clean readout?
I am not familiar with your car, but on at least some older cars, getting the code for no crank position sensor signal with the car off but the key on is normal. The engine is not turning, so there is no crank signal. That would not set the check engine light. There is a procedure that involves cranking the engine that tells you if the CPS is really defective.
Did the mechanic do a compression check, or did he simply determine that the car sounded like it had good compression while cranking?
This car has a conventional distributor and plug wires. Have you verified whether you have a good blue spark while cranking the engine?
This car has an in-tank fuel pump. Can you hear it spin up and pressurize the system when you turn the key to On? If not, start with fuses.
The DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) does NOT mean that the crankshaft position sensor is defective. Mechanics are supposed to know better than this line of reasoning; but, it seems, that too many don’t (or…).
The trouble code is for the voltage/signal in the crankshaft position sensor circuitry. The wiring and the sensor need to be checked. It could be the wiring connector to the sensor, or a bare or broken wire, etc. Finding what’s wrong requires troubleshooting — NOT automatic parts changing.
An independent garage would be able to handle this — perhaps, better than a dealership (and, less expensively).
He says he checked the compression with a gauge and got 300PSI. He owns an Independent Garage but says to take it to the dealership as he can’t get a digital readout from the ECM. I now have a bill for towing and $215 for changing that part and doing troubleshooting that he says doesn’t reveal why it won’t run. I’m trying to avoid another $50 to $60 to tow it to the dealership and have to pay them at least more to do the same checks. Prior to the trip to the mechanic I checked and I heard the fuel pump on start and had good spark before it went to the mechanic. The CPS is moot now as I have a new one installed. I did
Sorry to hear that you have an incompetent mechanic running an independent shop.
It’s not clear to me what he is talking about, “Can’t get a digital readout”. That needs to explained, by him, in writing.
You could take the problems, written up by your mechanic (in DETAIL), around to different shops, and the dealer, and ask them if they can handle it. This would save you from jockying the car from one shop to another.