Doing Clutch Replacement in Walmart Parking Lot

In a nutshell,without rereading, I recall that he’s replacing the slave only at this time (don’t ask) because it is leaking fluid out the bell housing and there is no clutch operation.
CSA

Using a screw driver to remove the starter? Don’t remove the screws from the starter motor, there should be two or three bolts with 13 or 15 MM heads holding the starter to the transmission.

good luck to you rickyrobert (Ricky Bobby???) and I applaud your willingness to try something new to save some $$, but I’m not sure that dropping a trans or clutch repair/replacement is a job for someone who thinks making a jumper wire for a clutch switch is complicated.

but besides that- are you positive that the repairs you are trying is what is actually needed to repair the vehicle? somewhere up above, someone asked your symptoms.

I’ve never worked on front wheel drive axles, maybe someone else can answer. I hope you at least have a Haynes manual or something. Should be info on the net about it.

The only axles I’ve done are GM and they just popped out using a pry bar and vice grip attached. Hard part was all the other stuff in order to get it that far. Once when I had a CV joint fail going to work, I actually replaced it in the parking garage at work that night. I was able to tell the wife everything I needed and she found it and brought it the 50 miles up. Seems to me we had a small compressor at work that I could use for the axle nut. I guess it was not my first axle so knew what I was doing. Now I’d just call Dave. The nuts though are lock nuts and should be replaced each time although I have used lock-tite a couple times instead.

I’ve done CV joints on trucks and it’s pretty easy. Never looked at a FWD Mitsubishi though.

Im replacing all of those plus a flywheel. The throw out bearing and slave is one piece on my model. There is no clutch pedal at all. There was a puddle of brake fluid under trans leaking between bell housing and engine. Master cylinder res. is full, brakes are fine (shares same res. with clutch). The slave cylinder is inside the trans so i can’t even check it unless i take the trans off. The hydraulic hose is perfect.
I decided to replace the whole clutch because my car needs it because of loss of power even though the disk still has some life in it. Also now that i have a unit I have the time to do it.

I get the pry bar but what exactly are you doing with the vice grip?

Half shafts can be a real bear to remove from the transaxle.

Some auto parts stores rent this tool.

You can reuse the circlips on the half shafts.

Tester

If you don’t have a puller handy, attaching a vice grip to the pry bar gives you the length you need to reach the axle end to pop it out. According to my fading memory anyway, or did I dream it?

Yes, they will stay on the cv axleshaft

You either carefully pop it out, for example using a brass drift, or you use something like this

I usually haven’t needed the special tool, but every once in awhile, there’s an axleshaft that needs to be persuaded. That’s where the tool comes in

Once the axleshafts are out, take a very good look at the transaxle output shaft seals. Make sure the garter spring(s) are still where they belong, and make sure you haven’t nicked the seal(s)

Automotive machine shops routinely resurface flywheels. Should cost you less than a new flywheel. There are “machine to” limits, though, and you don’t want the flywheel too thin.

Currently the puller i rented doesn’t fit inside tine area to even get to the axle

Try taking it off without the puller first. The last cv axle I did just had a little rust bond at the mounting point but the axle spline came out easy. You probably have to remove a few things anyway to get clearance to pull the axle out. I believe I had to disconnect one of the ball joints, the lower shock mount and the bump stop on the control arm just to get clearance to pull out the axle. This was on a totally different GM truck, I don’t know what the procedure is for that car.

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I literally was just thinking that

Just be careful you don’t pull it apart. You have to grab it behind the inner CV joint by the trans. If you pull on it anywhere else you can pull one of the joints apart and never get it back again. How do I know?

I once saw a colleague hit a cv axleshaft in the wrong place with the brass drift, causing the joint to come apart

I would just like to mention that you need to make SURE during the reassembly that the clutch disc is not installed backwards.

Don’t laugh. That has happened a fair amount of times all across the country I’m sure. I personally know of half a dozen examples of this happening.
One was a Subaru owner who felt the price quote was too high and decided to do it himself. The next week the car came in on the tow truck with a new clutch and a non-moving car.
He had installed the disc backwards…

He started insisting on a labor discount “because all of the nuts and bolts have been apart so you should have an easier time of it”. When he started getting a bit snotty over our refusal to do so he was told to call the tow truck back and haul it elsewhere.
His snottiness got a couple of extra hours flat rate added to the bill… :wink:

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At it for no success. The most effective blow i have been able to give this thing is wrapping a old timing belt around the axle, zip tieing it to tighten the belts grip on the axle, then twisting the belt around the slide hammer (has a cross at the end) then giving it a slam. But it wont budge. But hey i don’t have a big flat head to jam in there. Ill buy one tomorrow

Got it out. Had to stand up use two hands and stop worrying about the guy three units down blaring his radio passive aggressively because its 2am and he wants to go to sleep lol. This is a storage facility not a Ritz hotel. Im waiting for him to come down and ask me to keep it down haha

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This doesn’t sound right. The tool shown is to knock the inner CV joint loose from the transaxle. You can’t pull the inner CV joint from the transaxle by pulling on the axle shaft, the inner joint will come apart.

Are you trying to pull the outer CV joint out of the hub? There is a press for that. It attaches to the wheel studs and has a center bolt to push the outer CV joint though the hub. I normally use a brass hammer to knock the outer CV joint from the hub but if there is a trace of rust a hammer may not work.