On my way back from the coast today, the trucks RPM’s started going up and the engine was reving up, but I was losing steam. It started only when I was climbing long steep hills, but by the time I got home, it was doing from a dead stop in first gear, barely moving when I applied gas and released the clutch… Any ideas? I would like to try and fix this myself if at all possible :0) thank you for any suggestions!
When was the clutch replaced last?
You need a new clutch. I believe your truck has a hydraulically actuated clutch rather than cable or linkage, but failure of the hydraulic system would result in normal power on acceleration or under load but difficulty shifting from one gear to another or into a gear from neutral.
Nothing at all complicated or difficult about replacing your clutch if you’re mechanically inclined and have a warm, dry place to remove and install your transmission.
No difficulties shifting, just no power, but the engine revs up super high with very little getup & go… Do I really have to remove the transmission to get the clutch changed out? That would be a drag, I have no garage :0(
Your clutch is slipping and is shot. Yes. Step one for replacing the clutch is Remove Transmission…At the very minimum, you need a new clutch disk and a throw-out bearing. But if the pressure plate is 28 years old, I would replace that too. Those three parts can be purchased as a kit at a substantial savings…
Thank you all for your help! I’m going to see if there is a garage I can use to accomplish a clutch change
Make sure to buy yourself a nice HIGH QUALITY clutch kit…Dont get a 3-4 or 6 puck performance clutch either…that you do not need… Just a good quality kit…You can source them on ebay as there will be the widest selection and free shipping to boot on there. The kits have everything you need including the flywheel sometimes…but NEVER do they have the rear main seal…I think they should, but hey thats just me…that rear seal is massively important. Failure to replace this could very easily ruin your new clutch. Not to mention let your engine leak in a place that you cannot get to without removing the transmission…not fun.
It is most wise to also replace your flywheel. DO NOT FORGET to replace the rear main seal in the engine…to fail to do this would be VERY very STUPIT…
I know you may not want to change the flywheel…and it is not needed in every case…but if you dont want to do this job over again very soon…I would replace it during the clutch job, you will thank me later…and if you dont/wont change it…at LEAST have it resurfaced (not my fav) Trust me…
Thank you for the advice, I’m going to change the flywheel and rear main seal as well :0)
I have a 1984 Toyota pickup too (SR5). Not all clutch kits come with a pilot bearing and I would replace that as well.
When you remove the drive shaft, you might as well check the condition of the u-joints.
The first purchase I’d suggest making is a repair manual. Review the procedure for replacing the clutch assembly (along with the flywheel, as Honda may be correct…you may have torn it up) and see if you have the proper tools, expertise, and fortitude. Recognize while reading that on vehicles this age things never go as planned. For example, you may get half way into the tranny removal and find that the speedo cable (on this vehicle it’s a cable) is impossible to disconnect from the tranny. Will you be able to deal with the problem?
I’m not trying to be discouraging, only realistic. Replacing a clutch assembly, especially on a vehicle that old, requires specialized tools (like a torque wrench, for example), knowledge of how the assembly functions (to know how to use the pilot shaft, for example), as well as experience at dealing with the unexpected. I’m not sure this is a job for a novice working alone.
If you do decide to do the job yourself, you’ll need the manual anyway, so the money will not have been wasted.
"I’m going to change the flywheel and rear main seal as well "
Why? Are you losing lots of oil? And the flywheel may not be required (usually isn’t).
But absolutely buy a Chiltons/Haynes manual, see if you can do this. Not something you want to try without the needed tools and knowledge.
The flywheel is most likely severely scored, reading the comments, although I agree with Texases, the rear main seal shouldn’t be a problem.
If the flywheel has scoring and/or looks blue, then you need to either have it machined, or just replace it. Replacing is more expensive (remove old, install new), machining will take longer (remove, send out, get back, install). You may try getting one from a parts yard, and having that machined.
If the driveshaft is a two piece, the carrier bearing has to be pre-loaded, too. Read the manual carefully on that part.
If the flywheel is smooth, leave it alone. You can remove any glaze by wet-sanding with 280 grit wet paper…If the rear main is not leaking, leave it alone. The pilot bushing can be tricky to remove…You may need a hooked puller to snatch it out of there…But it’s a cheap part…The disc has a front and a back side. Don’t put it in backwards…
As I remember, getting the exhaust system out of the way is the hardest part. Don’t forget to support the engine so it doesn’t drop down…
If you don’t have any kind of hook to get the pilot bearing out, I’ve always found that stuffing it full of gease (through the bearing), and using the alignment tool and a light hammer works very well. After every tap or two, refill the hole with grease, and tap again. It may take a few minutes, but you do NOT want to mess up the end of your crankshaft.
Ah yes, the hydraulic extraction method…And it pre-lubes the bore for the new bearing!
Some Toyota’s had cable operated clutches with a self adjuster attached to the clutch pedal. At least check to see if you have a hydraulic clutch or a cable operated one. If it is a cable operated system, then there is a procedure to check the wear on the clutch and if the self adjusting mechanism is working. Post back if it is cable operated.
Tmf4207, if you haven’t done it yet, look for the clutch kit made by LUK. It is a high quality OEM-style kit with the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch pad, pressure plate, and clutch alignment tool. I’ve used their kit in three of my Toyota’s with great success. Check the flywheel for signs of abnormal wear and heat damage (blue-ing). The flywheel can be resufaced at most machine shops for a FRACTION of the cost of new. Unless you had several clutch replacements or some sort of physical damage, a flywheel can be resurfaced.
You mean to challenge me on saying NOT to touch the rear main seal of the engine…when he will be staring it right in the face…THE ONE TIME that he has the trans out of the vehicle? Really guys?
Thats all crazy talk. LOL Also like I said the flywheel isn’t always needed or necessary ( I’ve cut a few myself)…but does the OP know how to “Read” a flywheel like I or you or we can? Methinks not. I’m just trying to save him a ton of work…for what…a $100 part? Or $40 of machine work? and an $8 seal?
You have to remember guys, we know what we are doing and have more years wrenching than this OP’s truck is old…so unless you or I will be there to tell him whats up with his flywheel or rear main…let let him put the new and inexpensive parts in and be done with it.
How will he feel when his rear main decides to kick the bucket 20K into his new clutch…throws oil all over the flywheel…wrecks the clutch…leaks all over the driveway…and no recourse…other than a new clutch kit…and another trip under the truck to pull the tranny… to do the rear main. LOL…C’mon
I’m all for leaving things alone that arent broke…but thats me…I can deal with whatev happens and wouldnt care much other than to call myself an A-hole for not doing it right the first time…But this guy doesnt have our experience…and the parts are rather inexpensive compared to the job ahead. He would feel much better with one of us there to tell him whats what…but I wont be there, will you? I say to replace that rear main…no matter what… Class is still out on the flywheel…if you have a buddy who can read one…ask him for his opinion…Spruce up the old one or have it cut…BUT KNOW what to do with that flywheel mon. bec the only way to remedy this after the fact is to do it over again…Which do you want to do?
Most of the regular guys here are very sharp, I respect their opinions and rarely do I ever argue…I just dont want you getting in over your head over small change parts…ones that are not easy to get to… Know what I mean?
HB, what’s involved with the rear main here? On some, it’s a big deal.
Just pull the flywheel and it hits you square in the face…Easy…Peasy…Japanesey
Maybe the clutch plate or small steel plate cover in front of it…but basically its right there…not one of the hard ones.