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Dodge neon 2005 rev problem

Okay so Ill start off with the codes I got from auto zone.

-START AUTOZONE-

Definition
Crankshaft position sensor condition
explanation
The crankshaft position sensor signal is monitored for errors
probable cause
crank sensor defective
check connector and wiring to sensor
check trigger wheel for damage

-END AUTOZONE-

What Ive replaced so far
Crankshaft position sensor
Ignition coil
Sparkplug wires/Ignition wires

Okay so the problem is that it will not rev about 2000 rpms the car has to shift through every gear @ 2000 rpms and it will not go above 60 mph when you hit that speed the engine starts to sputter
also on a cold start it will never start right away it turns over for at least 8-15 seconds before it will start

However after about 30 min of driving I can turn the car off start it again and the problem seems to go away
Note: after its warmed up and i turn it off and back on again it will start right away and wont turn over for 8-15 seconds like on a cold start

When I replaced the crankshaft position sensor it seemed to solve the problem it went away for about 2 weeks then came back?

Please help I DESPERATELY don’t want to take it to a shop

I have checked on the Fourms and have tried this solution

\-- http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2281338/99-neon-fuel-pump-problem
In the Neon the fuel pump relay and horn relay are identical. Swap relays, put in a fresh fuse, and try to run. --\

\-- http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2253592/relay
I have the same problem one day I went out to start it ant it started flashing FUSE it did that for several more days then i went out to start it it would not start and kept FLASHING FUSE on the odometer, so I Jumped it drove it around for 10 min parked it came back out 30 min later wouldnt start. Jumped it again same thing. then i drove it for about an hour and it hasnt flashed FUSE again except for one time a day ago on a cold start and havent seen it since --\

PLEASE HELP!!! Please ask for more info if anything is unclear

Could have quite a few different causes. You’ll have to eliminate them one by one. I expect you did in fact have a bad crank sensor, but you also must have another problem remaining. I’m assuming the check engine light is now off, and there are no pending codes.

The symptom of a difficult cold start but an ok warm start could indicate the mixture is too lean. This could be caused by an air leak. Check all the vacuum hoses and vacuum devices for leaks. A problem with the fuel pressure is another possibility, but start with checking for the vacuuum leaks first probably is the best bet.

Also, is the routine engine maintenance up to date? There’s no harm done by bringing all that up to date in any event, and doing so might – cross your fingers – solve the problem without having to do anything else. And at worse, once you get it solved, you’ll also have all the routine maintenance done. Best of luck.

Ok ill look into that. also some more detail

usually if i turn it on drive for 5 min and turn it off it still has the 8-15 seconds roll over before the start
Except for when I would drive for 5 min to the gas station then it would start immediately after putting gas in it. also it would some times die right after Ive filled it up, it would die 2-3 times sometimes before I got a block away from the gas station

also this didn’t happen very much before but now Ive noticed it more lately when im driving sometimes it just drops down to 0 revs for 1-3 seconds then kicks back up to 2000 rpm which is the max it will go now

and all those codes are still on the computer and coming up every time after Ive replaced something

youtube.com/watch?v=Ux0EAbbTW6Q

so hopefully this video attachment works give you guys a better idea of whats going on

Your check engine light is on. When the PCM detects an active fault is lowers the rev limit to 2000 RPM in park/neutral.

You didn’t post the fault code number, P0335?