OK…98 6 cyl, i live in CT so it gets COOOLD! I work 6pm till 2AM and the problems only happen on my way home at 2AM. never had a problem outside of that time. it starts and runs fine, i drive the 10 miles home and have a stop light to hit once getting off the exit on the highway, almost as soon as i begin to slow down the striuck starts sputtering and the RPMs drop drastically, if i dont rev the engine it will abruptly stall with some popping involved. Can be a pain to re-start but once it re-starts it runs fine the rest of the way…if i keep it from stalling it will continue to be a pain in the ass the rest of the way home, every time i slow it will try and stall. Only happens when its colder than normal. Not sure where to begin…obviously the exhaust and egr valve come to mind immediately.
Whats UP?
Might be a dodge thing. My durango with the 5.7L engine is starting to do the same thing. Something with the cold?
I live in Maine, and my 92 Dakota has started to do the same thing. It’s a conspiracy… I’m sure of it now
No check engine light on mine, so my first thought was EGR, but I replaced that this past fall.
Let us know if you figure out what it is. I?m not going to investigate it any further because I only paid $500 for the truck:)
When you consider a particular component as being the cause of a problem, ask yourself, “How?”, and “Why?” could these components cause the problem. Until you gather credible evidence to confirm your suspicions, there isn’t a credible conclusion to be reached; and, you’re, likely, to end up changing good and expensive parts, needlessly.
The regular responders see this kind of faulty diagnosis all the time; and, we just shake our collective heads in dismay (or, something similar).
Basics: when you lift your foot from the throttle (gas pedal), the throttle goes to the idle position. Fuel flow will be adjusted to idle by the engne computer, which does the adjustment according to the information it gets from the sensors. The output of the engine computer, is carried out by component called “actuators”. One actuator is the idle air control valve (iac) which is a stepper motor which opens / closes a valve (pintle) in an air bypass passage. If the iac valve doesn’t respond correctly, or, the air passage is stuffed, the engine can’t idle properly.
This, still, doesn’t mean to change this part. It’s still, only, a suspect. The actions to take are: test the iac valve for response and to see if it’s hanging up; clean the passages to and from the iac valve pintle, and the pintle itself.
If no fault found here, go to test the other sensors and actuators.
Keep the experimental parts replacements limited to (relatively) inexpensive parts…not ones costing moocho bucks.
Hellokit
Yea…im about to go check the IAC valve, but ive found nothing that states that you can get an accurate determination of its wellbeing. How would one determine if this is faulty or not?