What are the symptoms of a bad CKP? i9 recently damaged the connector to the ckp, respliced a new connector now the engine cranks and runs poorly and wants to die out when it comes to idle, wondering if this actually has anythig to do with the ckp or possiably somting else. new plugs wires, and fuel filter. not sure where to go next any information is GREATLY appreciated!
I relate CPS issues to a full “engine will not fire” condition,not a poor running condition. Now many engines that use Camshaft Position Sensors will revert to a default program when they fail and some driveability issue will pop up.
so i can probably rule out the CKP and the wire-harness, if the engine is firing? It was running well untill i replaced the PCV valve, where i hit the sensor, put the old valve back in and no difference. the PCV hose was deteriated and broke apart and i replaced it with another piece of hose not sure but i’m thinking that the new hose may be a little bit larger, what kind of symptoms would there be if there was a leak in the hose there?
-thank you i’m dead in the water can’t drive it for my job!
Get the codes read. If it is having a problem with the crank senor, the ECM will set a code for it. If it is anything else, it will set a code for that as well.
i want to see a pic of your so called replicated connector,
then we go from there.
we aint dealing with a 12volt circuit here.
what are you working on?
bulldozer?
i used a bosch fuel injector conector it has the same pin placement and seems to fit right in, the ford dealership parts depot. told me that they didn’t know about that connector they would have to “research” it. and they never got back to me. will autozone read the codes? these mechanics around here want an arm and a leg to read it
On your 1995 Mercury Mystique, 2.0L, 4 cylinder engine:
In your post, yesterday http://community.cartalk.com/posts/list/2116372.page you stated that the wires appeared to be brass, and alum. In your response, you started that the wires [coverings] were red, and white/gr. And, that you didn’t see any aluminum foil.
Wire shielding may be in a layer between the outer wire covering and the inner. It may be braided wire, or foil. Signal wires from camshaft, or crankshaft, position sensors are commonly shielded.
Three different-source wiring diagrams show a camshaft position sensor (cps) on the 4 cylinder engine. They DON’T show a CKP (Crankshaft Position Sensor). The diagrams could be wrong. I don’t know which.
Be extra sure that you have the correct pcv valve. The wrong one can flow too much air and cause lean running problems.
Added: There are instructions, and photographs, of the crankshaft position sensor at this site for (it states) the 2.0L engine: http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800a8927 You are in the position to know for sure if the sensor is the camshaft, or the crankshaft, position sensor.
Yes, parts stores will read the codes.
if the cpk was wired wrong would the engine even turn over and drive?
Yes, if the wrong is that the shield is now missing or broken for part of the distance of the wiring. Electrical noise will be picked up on the unshielded wire and mislead the computer on the camshaft position now and then. That would likely cause the engine to run rough.
Red wires carry electrical power. The engine computer (ECM) sends 5 (or, 2 1/2) volts to the sensor. White wires carry signals back to the ECM.
The worry is, that if you trap the shield foil or wire braid in the splice with the center wire, the shield will be ground the power wire or the signal wire. This is bad.
All I have heard is that you should avoid a patchwork solution on that connection as well as anything connected to a computer. Looking alike is not always good enough.
Here is the repair of a shielded wire in a military repair manual. Just look at the wire and shield (braided wire) on the 2nd page. Your wire may have aluminum foil shield. That’s the same idea (it shields the wire from outside signals). http://books.google.com/books?id=OaXyBWO0qMkC&pg=PT286&lpg=PT286&dq=shielded+wire+repair&source=bl&ots=aSMOpdS-Dv&sig=KKAMWXjN5l3NtUkq2PKhKXAWmEk&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=2&ct=result#PPT287,M1
Cut off the connector you spliced in. Splice the center of the wires together, as shown in the drawing. The splice should have a plastic sleeve. Over the splice sleeve, you can wrap aluminum foil (Alcoa is fine). The foil should touch the shield on each end. Tape over the aluminum foil. Results?
Ok here we go, i’m trying to track down a harness and connector, any idea if the crank sensor connector and cam sensor connector and and harness are the same? no one seems to be able have the CKP connector and harness or find it in their data base. is there possiably another harness that i could use which is insulated and would carry the same signal? auto zone web site carries a
MSD / 6LS EFI Cam Sensor Extension Harness for LS2 Engines for $30
don’t want to drop the coin if it’s not the correct one
thank you for all the help