Civic 2000 does not move after trans rebuild


#1

hi there,

Just rebuild my civic 2000 b4ra trans. after I install the trans back and the car does not move under all gears.

the manual says the fluid should be 6.2 Qt for overhaul and I added an external filter and an external cooler should take another 1 qt (?). I totally added 6 qt and the fluid level is ok. I put torque converter upside to drain and some fluids come out. but did not count how much.

another werid thing is that I can not push the car down the drive way with slope with engine off and brake down and netral gear.

I jack up the front and give some gas under D4 and the wheel does not spin.

Any help? thanks


#2

The only explanation that would seem sensible is you simply put it back together wrong.


#3

+1 to @auto-owner


#4

Bad transmission build, forgot the converter bolts, or the halfshafts are not seated.

Another possibility (and I’ve seen this…) is that the converter was not fully seated on the splines when the transmission was installed. When the bellhousing bolts are tightend it breaks the center out of the flexplate; either immeidately or after a brief period of running.


#5

Do you have the spec and a way to measure the transmission fluid pressure? The problem must be pretty basic. That’s as good a place to start as anywhere.


#6

thanks guys. really appreciate.

I just follow the manual and online youtube for guideline.

  1. I did not forget the torque converter bolts. there are 8 of them and i remember to tighten it and they align pretty good
    2 .I think the torque converter is seated well and I can use a finer to rotate with smoth feel
  2. the sahft is seated well and I can rotate with some normal resistence.
    3.I do not have a tool to measure the fluid pressue. it will be great if you can provide more instructions.

I feel like some basic problems that could cause this and the engine runs same as before with no abnormal noise and with good idle speed.

any ideas I can try out?


#7

Sounds like you messed up or missed reconnecting the gear selector. Recheck that.


#8

I agree with Twin Turbo. It sounds like the gear selector is not connected. Just because it indicates neutral or drive inside…that does not mean it’s really neutral or drive at the transmission where it counts.


#9

Another possibility (and I’ve seen this…) is that the converter was not fully seated on the splines when the transmission was installed.

I’m with OK4450 on this one, especially if it’s not moving in any gear.


#10

I don’t have a Honda manual but my Acura factory service manual lists several things to check. I know nothing about transmissions though.

  1. ATF level of course or worn or broken pump.
  2. Shift cable not connected, worn, or broken.
  3. Regulator valve stuck.
  4. Strainer clogged.
  5. Trans to engine assembly error
  6. Axles not connected
  7. Main shaft gears worn, etc.
  8. Main TC seal improperly installed. Needs to be installed flush and if fully seated in the TC will block the flow.

Good luck.


#11

Another +1 for @TwinTurbo . That would explain the car not moving.


#12

@twinturbo. thanks

do you mean the shift fok that connects to shift cable on the below? I ask my friend to shift gear inside the car and I watch the fork to turn or not under the car. it turns fine. I can even feel the resistance during shift and it feels the same as before.

thanks


#13

one thing I notice the wheel still moves on park after I jack up the front. will double check. the park should the counter clock wise to the left most, right?

thax


#14

the Honda convertor has an odd design. The the convertor shell has the starter drive ring cast into shell. So the engine drive plate is a simpler design. But it is still bolted to the converter face… U can ubolt them and verify converter has some in-out movement or clearance. To verify if convertor is seated properly. Don’t think that is issue.


#15

one thing I notice the wheel still moves on park after I jack up the front.

Not sure what you mean. You said before that you couldn’t even push the vehicle if the engine was off, gear selector in neutral. Now you seem to be saying that you can turn the wheel when in park if it’s off the ground. Perhaps you can take some time to elaborate on this in more detail.

It’s good you verified the shifter is moving the gear selector on the trans. Now, was the selector in the right position when it was re-connected?


#16

I reconnect the shift cable with control shift fork on the bottom on park position and gear selector on the top on park as well. the selector, fork position, light indicator are in sync.

for wheel movement, the wheel still turns after I jack up on the front and gear selector is on park position. which should not move. is that right?

when I put the car on the ground, I can not push the car under neutral. has not tried other gear to push yet. will update.

thx


#17
for wheel movement, the wheel still turns after I jack up on the front and gear selector is on park position. which should not move. is that right?

With both front wheels jacked off the ground, in PARK, turning one front wheel by hand should turn the other front wheel in the opposite direction.


#18

thanks insightful. that is exactly what I saw on my car. I guess mine is normal then. still do not know why the car does not get engaged and move on d4/3/2.

thanks

Shigui


#19

My take on this is that the PARK pawl is not disengaging the cog wheel. Only you can explore why.

Does the engine load up when you shift to D4,3,2 ? If so that would indicate that the manual valve is operating, the line pressure is present, and that the mechanical connections from the engine to the final drive are intact. I am wondering if there is any way the PARK release rod has gotten loose from the manual selector.

How this helps.


#20

I have to ask. Is this the first transmission you have rebuilt? If the answer is yes, something was probably done wrong.