Civic 2000 does not move after trans rebuild

I’m thinking the same thing as @researcher , the parking prawl isn’t disengaging for some reason.

Sorry guys for later reply. just got back from overseas travel today.

@PvtPublic, this is my first build and I tried my best to follow the service manual and online youtube

@researcher, I do not remember if the load goes up when I shift to d4, 3, 2 since it has been a month.not sure the idle speed will tell anything or not. the idle speed is good as before.

if the parking prawl is not disengaging, I think we have to take it apart to check it. I did manually test the shift and it engage/disengage fine.

thx

Did u go to Syria for training? Or Libya?

What I meant by “Does the engine load up?” is that when the accelerator is pressed and the transmission is in a forward gear, the engine is straining like the car wants to go but the car doesn’t move, i.e. the engine is reving against the restraint of the torque converter. This would be different than the engine reving free, i.e. unloaded, like the transmission is in Neutral. Try this test: Start the engine; shift into one of the forward gears (D4,D3,2,or 1); while holding the service brake, rev the engine to 1500 RPM on the tachometer; shift to NEUTRAL; and see if the engine RPM flares. If so the hydraulics are working okay. You might try this again with the service and emergency brakes released and see if the same thing occurs.

The car should roll with the engine ‘OFF’; the transmission in any gear except ‘PARK’; and the emergency brake released. If you raise one front wheel with the transmission out of ‘PARK’ and engine not running, the wheel should be free to turn by hand (of course have the rear wheels blocked.)

BTW did you service the final drive/differential?

i did not service the differential.

I jack up the front and the wheel moves freely with engine off and neutral. have not tried the load test. will update.

thx

When you say the wheels move freely, do both wheels move in the same direction or does one wheel rotate in the forward direction and the other rotate in the reverse direction. If the later is the case the differential is operating as it should but the final drive may still be locked. That is the reason I specified the test with “raise one front wheel…” and the other front wheel on the ground

found the root problem. the reverse selector is upside down. I remember I did it right. but anyway I guess play that part several times and it got messed up.