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Check engine light blinking and epc light is on

It’s a 2010 vw jetta. Check engine light is blinking and the epc light is on the car is not paid off yet have no. Warranties on it what should I do how expensive is it going to be to fix it can I still drive it any advice.

If the CEL is blinking, then you should NOT drive it. See if any of your friends have an engine code reader.

Auto Zone will read codes in most states . I seems you are driving this thing so if you have a place close maybe you will not make it worse. But you should not be driving it. No advice can be given without the codes.

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Those two different warning lights are both telling you NOT to drive it.
If your really want to limit your repair costs, you will either have it towed or drive it directly to a foreign car specialist shop for diagnosis and repair.
Yes, you can have the codes read at an auto parts store, but then you will still need to have it repaired, and this will likely mean that you are driving it for a longer period of time than if you took the car directly to a VW specialist.

I mention a “VW specialist” because VW dealers have developed such a bad reputation regarding the cost of repairs. If you don’t know of any indy VW specialists in your area, this is a good time to find one via the yellow pages or Google.

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No I’m not driving it just checking to see if I can

Like other have said, without the codes there is no way to even guess what might be wrong. Just for educational purposes here is a ling to a high-level overview about the ECP warning light.

Blinking means that its into the danger area for damage. It doesn’t take much to ruin a very expensive converter or two at $800 each so just tow it to a shop. The thing is that AZ and others that kinda read codes and guess what the problem is, still doesn’t get it fixed and just wastes time.

One common problem w/continuing to drive the car w/these indicators before the cause is determined is expensive-to-repair damage to the catalytic converter. If you value your wallet, that’s not a road you want to go down. Concur w/the others, stop driving the car until you can get a proper diagnosis. The number of warning lights and flashing lights that light up the dashboard like a Christmas tree isn’t necessarily proportional to the cost it will take to fix the problem. Could be a minor, inexpensive problem to fix, if addressed promptly.

These are the codes P0300 P0302 P0301 P0303 P0304

Those codes are telling you that there is a misfire in all of the cylinders.

DO NOT start the engine or drive the car unless you want to add a very large amount to the existing repair bill.
This car needs to be towed to a competent mechanic for remediation of the misfiring and for whatever collateral damage may have taken place as a result of the misfiring.

How many miles on this car ? Have you exceeded the mileage at which the spark plugs should have been replaced?

They are supposed to be changed at 60000 miles.

78,000 miles

Just checked again it’s 78,449

I understand what you mean but I am on a tight budget and taking it to a mechanic would be the best choice but is there any other way/options

Sorry, but you own a car that is not known for reliability. When you have a car, you need to budget about $1000 per year for maintenance and repairs. If you can’t afford that, then you can’t afford the car.

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The only other option would be for you–or a handy friend–to begin by replacing the spark plugs. Be sure to use the exact brand and model number spark plugs that are specified in the Owner’s Manual.
Don’t use any of those fancy multiple electrode aftermarket plugs.

If replacing the plugs doesn’t help, then you will probably have to replace the coils that fire those plugs, but without actual hands-on diagnostic work by a qualified mechanic, you could wind up just “throwing parts” at the problem at that point, and you may not save any money in the process.

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Thanks I will try that and go from there much appreciated

Misfire means that the computer isn’t observing the acceleration in the crankshaft that should occur as the fuel/air mixture in each cylinder explodes, pushing the piston down, and forcing the crankshaft to accelerate. The most likely culprits?

  • If the engine is running ok otherwise, it could be that the computer is confused. It’s measuring the crankshaft as not accelerating with each spark plug firing, when it actually is. A faulty crank position sensor could cause this for example. That’s the sensor it uses to measure the crankshaft position and acceleration. Shops can test it. A diy’er can replace that sensor to see if it fixes the problem.

  • The fuel/air mixture could be off. Like trying to light a fire with wet wood. Creates an incomplete explosion, and so not as much force transferred to the crankshaft as the computer expects. If it is only slightly off you might not notice it as a drivability problem, except perhaps when the engine is stressed, like during accelerations or going up steep hills. A shop or diy’er would look for engine air leaks and test the fuel pressure.

  • The fuel/air mixture isn’t being compressed as much as it should. Again, an incomplete explosion results. Compression is a simple thing for a shop or diy’er to measure.

  • The spark is weak, or occurs at the wrong time in relationship to the piston position. Both these are easily diagnosed using equipment a shop has. A diy’er might just replace all of the ignition components, spark plugs, wires, coil packs, and ignition module.

So I changed the spark plugs she is running fine i cleared codes and took it for a drives fine i am still going to take it to a mechanic as soon as I can get a little extra cash just want to thank everyone for you’re suggestions

Good for you for getting your Jetta running well again.