I HAVE A 1997 CHEVY 2 WHEEL DRIVE S-10 BLAZER. I HAVE HAD THE VALVE BODY OUT AND LOST TRACK OF THE EIGHTH CHECK BALL. I KNOW WHERE THE SEVEN GO IN THE VALVE BODY BELOW THE GASKET, BUT I FOUND AN EIGHTH THAT I THINK GOES ABOVE THE SPACER/ GASKET. DOES ANYBODY KNOW?
ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANKS
You probably have a TH700R4. Haynes has a manual that covers the TH200R4, TH350, TH400, and TH700R4. If you have the 4L60, you may have to search the librarys. Maybe Transman will post – he does a lot of GM transmissions.
4L60E… I know its very hard to describe check ball locations. I’ll see if I can post a diagram for you.
transman
I tried posting a pic but it didnt come through yet. I’ll try it again.
transman
I dont know what is wrong with this site, I tried posting twice with attachment but neither post showed up. If you still need the diagram, let me know and I will e-mail it to you.
transman
THANKS. I APPRECIATE YOUR ATTEMPTED DIAGRAM POSTING.
SOMEBODY FAXED ME THE INFORMATION I NEEDED. THERE ARE TEN CHECK BALLS IN THE 4L60E, BUT ONLY ONE FALLS OUT OF THE CASE WHEN YOU REMOVE THE VALVE BODY, TWO REMAIN IN THE CASE. SEVEN GO IN THE VALVE BODY.
NOW, IS THERE ANY WAY TO FORCE TORQUE CONVERTER ENGAGEMENT USING THE UNDER DASH CONNECTOR, WITHOUT USING A TECH II? (ALSO POSTED AS ANOTHER QUESTION).
AGAIN, ANY INFORMATION WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
Yep, check balls #9 and 10 are enclosed in capsules. They require special tools to remove and install. The one you are talking about which falls out of the case when you remove the valve body is the one next to the 3-4 accumulator.
OK, now as far as forcing lockup goes, you can go into the wiring and ELECTRONICLY force lockup, but first, tell me whats going on here. Why do you want to do this?? The computer controlls lockup, you shouldnt need to force lockup. I can force lockup during diagnostics using my Modis but you should not need to bypass the computer by forcing lockup command. I ask this because this transmission has TCC issues which are HYDRAULIC issues NOT electronic issues. Tell me whats happening…
transman
THANKS FOR THE REPLY, IT IS APPRECIATED.
OK, HERE GOES.
THIS TRANSMISSION WILL NOT GO INTO TCC LOCK-UP AT ALL, HAS HARSH 1-2 SHIFT ONLY WHEN HOT, AFTER 20 MILES OR SO OF DRIVING, BUT SHIFTS GREAT UNTIL HOT. AUTO ZONE SCANED IT AND GOT A CODE P1870. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME. VEHICLE HAS 175 K MILES, BUT LOOKS AND RUNS GREAT. I DON’T KNOW IF THIS TRANSMISSION IS THE ORIGINAL NOR IF IT HAS EVER HAD ANY REPAIRS.
I BOUGHT A USED TRANSMISSION TO REPLACE THIS ONE WITH. BUT BECAUSE SOMEBODY TOLD ME PROBLEM MIGHT BE IN THE VALVE BODY (AND IT IS EASIER TO CHANGE), I REPLACED THE VALVE BODY. IT IS EXACTLY THE SAME WITH THE SECOND VALVE BODY (FROM THE USED TRANSMISSION). SO, I THOUGHT I MIGHT LEARN SOMETHING IF I COULD EASILY “TRICK” THE TORQUE CONVERTER. NOT AS A PERMANENT REPAIR, BUT JUST TO SEE WHAT IT WOULD TELL ME.
THAT’S WHERE I’M AT. SHOULD I JUST REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION WITH THE ONE I HAVE? OR SHOULD I TRY TO FIND SOME EASY REPAIR FOR THE ONE THAT IS IN THE VEHICLE NOW?
THANKS FOR LISTENING.
Ok, first of all, dont go attempting to electronically force lockup because you will be wasting your time. The computer is already commanding lockup. The P-1870 code means “transmission component slipping”. In your case, and this is a very common issue, is the torque converter clutch is slipping. Its exactly what I was talking about in the previous post. You have a HYDRAULIC issue. Your problem is in the valve body. What is happening is the converter clutch regulator valve has worn out its bore in the valve body and is leaking. This regulator valve regulates the hydraulic pressure or “apply” pressure to apply the converter clutch. The worn valve bore is allowing fluid to pass by the valve in the worn area. This reduces the apply oil pressure and causes the converter clutch to slip and chatter. This problem is so common in the 4L60E that just about every one of them will do this. This is probably why your replacement valve body is doing the same thing. The cure for your issue is to install a kit made by a company called Sonnax. This contains a new TCC regulator and isolator valve and sleeve assy. The regulator and isolator valve bores must be reamed and this valve and sleeve kit installed to bring hydraulic integrity back to the valve body. The kit is not so expensive but the reamers are. If I were you, I would take your original valve body to a transmission shop and have them install the kit for you. They most likely already have the reamers which will save you a lot of money.
Hope this helps.
transman
THANKS FOR THE GOOD INFORMATION.
DO YOU THINK IT IS THE PROBLEM YOU DESCRIBED EVEN WITHOUT ANY TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CHATTER? THERE IS NO INDICATION THAT THE CLUTCH IS EVEN ATTEMPTING ENGAGEMENT. NOTHING AT ALL. JUST LIKE TRANSMISSIONS USED TO BE WITH OUT LOCK UP CONVERTERES.
WELL NOW I AM GOING TO BE SPENDING MY TIME TRYING TO FIND A SHOP THAT WILL INSTALL THE VALVE IN THE VALVE BODY.
THANKS AGAIN.
I WILL LET YOU KNOW THE OUTCOME.
If it makes you feel better, have a trans shop scan the computer. With a scanner, they can tell whether the computer is commanding lockup in a matter of seconds rather than you going into the wiring, hooking up a switch and driving it.
transman
OK, I FOUND A SHOP THAT CHARGED ME $115 TO INSTALL A SONNAX 77754-04K ISOLATOR VAVLE, SLEEVE, REGULATOR VALVE AND SPRING.
TRANSMISSION ACTS SAME. MAYBE IT TAKES A LITTLE WHILE LONGER BEFORE HARSH 1-2 SHIFT STARTS, BUT IT DOES START.
ALSO NO LOCK UP. I HAVEN’T DRIVEN IT FAR ENOUGH TO GET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON, BUT NO LOCK UP IS OCCURING.
SHOULD I CHANGE TRANSMISSION WITH USED UNIT I HAVE? IF I DO THAT, SHOULD I INSTALL REPAIRED VALVE BODY IN THE USED TRANSMISSION WHEN INSTALLED BACK IN VEHICLE? THE USED TRANSMISSION CAME WITH A TORQUE CONVERTER. I HAVE NOT TRIED EITHER THE USED TRANSMISSION NOR THE CONVERTER, JUST THE VALVE BODY. THE USE VALVE BODY ON MY VEHICLE’S ORIGINAL TRANSMISSION ACTED THE SAME AS THE ORIGINAL VALVE BODY.
ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
THANKS.
I DO NOT THINK MY LAST QUESTION POSTED.
TRYING AGAIN.
OK, I FOUND A SHOP THAT CHARGED ME $115 TO INSTALL A SONNAX 77754-04K ISOLATOR VAVLE, SLEEVE, REGULATOR VALVE AND SPRING. TRANSMISSION ACTS SAME. MAYBE IT TAKES A LITTLE WHILE LONGER BEFORE HARSH 1-2 SHIFT STARTS, BUT IT DOES START. ALSO NO LOCK UP. I HAVEN’T DRIVEN IT FAR ENOUGH TO GET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO COME ON, BUT NO LOCK UP IS OCCURING. SHOULD I CHANGE TRANSMISSION WITH USED UNIT I HAVE? IF I DO THAT, SHOULD I INSTALL REPAIRED VALVE BODY IN THE USED TRANSMISSION WHEN INSTALLED BACK IN VEHICLE? THE USED TRANSMISSION CAME WITH A TORQUE CONVERTER. I HAVE NOT TRIED EITHER THE USED TRANSMISSION NOR THE CONVERTER, JUST THE VALVE BODY. THE USE VALVE BODY ON MY VEHICLE’S ORIGINAL TRANSMISSION ACTED THE SAME AS THE ORIGINAL VALVE BODY. ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANKS.
You really need to have a scanner hooked up to see if any codes are present. If you didnt clear out the codes after the valve job on the trans, I would recommend clearing them and starting from fresh. Drive it with a SCANNER, not a code reader tapped into the computer and monitor the commands of the computer. I would have a transmission shop do this because the type of scanners we use will do things such as allow us to take control of the transmission shifting. With my scanner, I can override the computer and shift the transmission through all the gears AND lock up the converter. This is a quick and easy way for me to determine whether the problem lies in the computer or in one of the inputs providing info to the computer.
transman
SINCE THERE WAS A DELAY IN POSTING AND WARRANTY ON USED TRANSMISSION STARTS WITH PURCHASE DATE, NOT INSTALL DATE, I INSTALLED THE USED TRANSMISSION.
I INSTALLED THE TORQUE CONVERTER THAT CAME WITH THE TRANSMISSION. I USED THE OLD VALVE BODY WITH NEW SONNAX VALVE, AND I INSTALLED A NEW SET OF VALVE BODY GASKETS AND NEW SPACER PLATE.
ALL IS WELL. NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. SMOOTH 1-2 SHIFT EVEN WHEN HOT AND GOOD CLUTCH LOCK UP.
THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE. IT IS TRULY APPRECIATED
SINCE THERE WAS A DELAY IN POSTING AND WARRANTY ON USED TRANSMISSION STARTS WITH PURCHASE DATE, NOT INSTALL DATE, I INSTALLED THE USED TRANSMISSION.
I INSTALLED THE TORQUE CONVERTER THAT CAME WITH THE TRANSMISSION. I USED THE OLD VALVE BODY WITH NEW SONNAX VALVE, AND I INSTALLED A NEW SET OF VALVE BODY GASKETS AND NEW SPACER PLATE.
ALL IS WELL. NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. SMOOTH 1-2 SHIFT EVEN WHEN HOT AND GOOD CLUTCH LOCK UP.
THANKS FOR ALL THE ADVICE. IT IS TRULY APPRECIATED