In any shop environment, ANY AND ALL MECHANICS WOULD PICK OPTION 1
Oh sure…for a stuck both (especially a big bolt)…I’d always pick a 1/2". No question. Mainly because the 1/4" could break.
But if the bolt required 40ft/lbs torque…and the 1/4" was good to 50ft/lbs torque without any deforming…then the amount of pressure you exert on the 1/4" ratchet to remove the bolt would be EXACTLY the same as the 1/2" ratchet. It HAS to be…if not then you are governed by a different law of physics then the rest of the world.
I tried to do preventive maintenance and I am stuck here. It tried to save money and it is going in the opposite direction - I do not have a bunch of machinist tools either.
It only has two screws with one broke. if it is 3 screws, then I could leave it on 2 screws, depending on the position.
What workaround you advice me - could to please focus on it? Timing is going to be disturbed, if I remove the part - I can not do timing.
See if your local parts store rents tools and has a timing light. That’s all you need. As mentioned, the distributor is keyed to the camshaft, so at best, removing it will throw timing out only a few degrees. The timing light and the proper method to cancel the timing advance is all you need. If you use the white-out marking method, you can avoid using the timing light. But, after so many years of operation, a timing check would probably do some good.
Find a friend that knows about cars and have them teach you.
I don’t want to be too critical, but you need a mentor to help you get a grasp of what you are doing. You took a simple job that should have went smooth and made a nightmare for yourself.
Either you turned that screw the wrong way and tightened it instead of loosening it, or you cross threaded it and snapped it off.
I have helped quite a few novices in maintaining their own cars, but I also try to explain that they will have limits to stop at. Some pick it right up, and others never learn “Righty tighty, lefty loosy”.
Believe Me I know…I caught my own son standing on my 30 inch long 1/2 inch breaker bar tightening down lugnuts. I’m surprized that he didn’t snap half the studs off. I told him “It’s a car…not a Sherman Tank” !!!
It must have been x-threaded by the m.c when he first installed (does the timing belt require removing the distri cap?).
When I tried to remove, felt there was not much happening. Then I removed the tool to look - I see the piece inside the ratchet - initially I thought that it was removed and one screw is shorter than the other. But after removing the cap, I realized that it was broken inside. I did have the coolant bleeder nut seized once and my mentor took it out (no longer available) - it is over 25yrs old.
But this little screw to break w/o any force - must have been x-threaded in. I would love to have a mentor and all the tools!\
I used PB blaster and it was easy to take off the Distri (not sure if the PB booster played any role). It might been the first time it was taken off since manufacturing since it still has the original Distri. Here is a techshop I can access tools - have not been there: http://www.techshop.ws/index.html
Yes any one of us would pick the 1/2 " ratchet for many reasons, it is sturdier, has less flex and fits our hands much better, but for a given length the force transmitted short of failure is the same.
Machine shop said it was rusted inside, charged $50
Used a pair of M4-7 got from Home Depot which was keyed Hex (not Philip screw) - what is better? - he said these things are under a lot of vibration and recommended this screw which is black color. I did have a pair in bronze color much like the one broke. Everyone recommended me to use the new one so I did - but I wonder what you guys think of - bronze Vs black?
The rotor that was in there was made in Japan (not OEM) and was in there for about 15yrs and done 40k miles. That & distri cap were good quality so they went back in. So my preventive maintenance did not do any good. I cleaned some red dust inside the Distri, The new one I got was loose and made in Mexico. So wondering if my preventive maintenance should be limited to replacing fluids only since I am not sure cleaning the red dust added any value? Or should I remove these things every 3/4 yrs and put back in so chances of seizing is reduced? I did coat the screws with anti seize stuff that is used on spark plugs.
I still have the old spark plug wires about 27yrs old - my volt meter probe was not long enough to measure the resistance. Will try again.
Em, this the first time I did go closer to the engine this much (changed sparks) - so maybe I will be brave enough to change valve cover gasket and other stuff in the future.
You went thru all that and put the old cap and rotor back on???
you wasted your time and effort.
Toss those 27 year old wires into the scrap pile.
Now that you know how it comes apart, get a new cap and rotor…and you’ve just
found something to get a little more experience.
No need to do it tomorrow, but I’d change them out when you get a chance.
The screws…it doesn’t matter. Just remember that it’s not a Sherman Tank…so just snug them up and remember Lefty loosy…righty tighty.
Personally I prefer anything other than Philips and slotted screws. But with this you shouldn’t be over tightening them or you could crack the cap.
With antiseize, you should be good to go on those screws. The hex-headed ones sound fine. If you want to back them out a half turn and retighten them once a year - fine.
@Yosemite - not quite!
I have a new cap/rotor, from Wells, I put it on for 2 days and removed it. Because the one in there is better made and better fit (Japan). New one is from Mexico.
Old ones are made in Japan and better quality - NGK is good alternative but why bother if it is not broken. I once had a pensioner from Germany - she put baby oil on the black plastics on her car - they looked like new on the old car. It is how you maintain. I hear the rotors last for 100k.
BTW, the phillips screw also has hexagonal outside - so there are two options to unscrew - the one I put it in only has one option to unscrew.
UPDATE:
Thanks @Yosemite - for keep reminding "Lefty loosy…righty tighty"
I made use of it today when I did it on the newer car. I had to access the rotor screw from the back and I was indeed confused and played your message in my mind and got it done.
I believe that the red dust inside the distributor is rust, the beginning signs that the bearing in the distributor is failing. If you start to hear any noise, replace the distributor when it’s convenient for you rather than when it fails when you don’t want it to.
Good catch - this is what I saw online about red dust - I was waiting for a validation from someone. I should start shopping for one. At the mean time, my car only does about 3k in a year. Your point is well taken.