If you note, there is a correction at the bottom that says:
2. Look in the drivers side wheel well and you’ll see a hole with a bunch of flaps. Grab a 19mm socket and extensions and ONLY TURN THE CRANSKSHAFT BOLT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
How long should the 19mm socket be to access through the wheel well?
I never did it before - will I be able to do it? I have done, AT fluid, Engine fluid, Radiator fluid and sparks.
I presume this is to turn the crankshaft to get it to TDC or some other needed alignment point. I’ve never done this on an Integra, but on my Corolla I have to remove a windscreen (it’s in the way), and then I just use the correct socket/ratchet combo and an extension long enough that allows me to reach the bolt, but not so long that the ratchet is knocking into the tire area. It’s a trial and error thing, not possible to say until you actually try doing it. Most DIY’ers have a variety of extensions lengths to choose from. To make it easier I usually jack the front of the car and remove the right front tire when I do this.
Note: If you find it difficult to get the proper alignment, try it again, this time with the spark plugs removed.
The reason for turning the crankshaft is to get the distributor shaft turned in such a way that the rotor locking screw is easily acessible.
Yes, you can do this yourself. Just turn the steering wheel as described and look through the access hole to see how deep a 19 mm socket you will need.
Before taking things apart, draw a witness line running along the cap/dist housing/block in case you need to put it back on in the same position it was originally.
More often than not, turning the alternator will rotate the crankshaft which will in turn rotate the distributor to the position where the rotor thru-bolt can be accessed. It might be worth a try.
After you remove the distributor cap, look to see where the rotor locking screw is. If you are lucky, it will be facing up enough so you can get to it without turning anything. If you do have to turn the distributor rotor, I always do as Tester said which is to bump the starter until you gain access.
That said, if you insist on turning the crankshaft manually, any 1/2" drive 19mm socket will work. It is then a matter of how long of an extension you need to use. If the tire/wheel is removed, a 20" or 24" long extension will bring it outside the wheel well. If the tire is left on, a 10" extension should work okay although you will have to reach inside the wheel well to turn your ratchet.
The reason they recommend turning the engine over by hand is you don’t want to crank the engine from the ignition switch with the coil open/ungrounded. The uncontrolled spark may find ground through the ignition module or PCM. In the shop the engine could be “bumped” over by installing a jumper in place of the starter relay with the ignition off. The distributor could also be unplugged or the coil output grounded with a jumper wire.
If a ratchet is used make a strong mental note to remove the ratchet before starting the engine.
Failure to do so may cause a loud bang and flinging the ratchet at high speeds into someone or some thing.
You will be turning counterclockwise . . . because that is the direction of rotation for your engine. I also suspect your crank bolt is left hand threads. By turning the bolt counterclockwise, you will not be loosening it.
Early Hondas and Acuras rotate counterclockwise . . . in direct contrast to almost all other automotive engines
On your car, the engine drive belts are on the driver’s side
On almost all other cars, the engine drive belts are on the passenger’s side
Park a buddy’s FWD Toyota, Ford or Chevy next to your car and pop the hoods on both cars
When your buddy has his Toyota hood open, tell him to bump over the engine, without starting it. Watch what direction the belts turn
Then do the same thing on your Acura
You will see the difference, and you’ll understand what I’m trying to explain
Regardless of the rotation direction of the engine, the Honda/Acura crankshaft bolt has right handed threads. However, asemaster is correct. Since the rotation of this engine is counterclockwise, you can’t use the starter trick.
This thread started out talking about the distributor but now are you talking about removing the crankshaft bolt? I don’t see why unless you are going to do a timing belt job now. A friend of mine had a 1987 Acura Integra and I did most of the work on it. She had it long enough that I replaced the timing belt and related parts twice.
