I give the dust boot a twist first to free it, then slowly/firmly pull, holding both the boot and the wire next to the boot.
@db4690 writes …
Yes . . . but using a 1/2" drive ratchet with an extension is much less exhausting
?? Just curious why? Given a certain bolt to turn, isn’t the turning effort independent of the drive size, 3/8" vs 1/2"? I thought it was only affected by the length of the ratchet handle. Or do you mean 1/2" drive ratchets have longer handles than 3/8" drive ratchets?
George
1/2" drive ratchets are much meatier than 3/8" drive ratchets
Same goes for the sockets and extensions
Here’s a worthy experiment for you . . .
Turn your own engine over with a 3/8" drive ratchet, socket and extension
Then do the same thing with a 1/2" drive ratchet, socket and extension
Before you even turn over the engine, you’ll see the difference in physical size
After you conduct the experiment, please report back
And let us know what was physically less demanding
I’m not gloating, by the way
It’s just that if you conduct this little experiment, you’ll understand what I’m trying to explain
I’m sure you are correct @db4690. I was just surprised is all that turning force is related to the ratchet drive size itself. I’ve done a similar experiment as you mention before, and you are right, my 1/2" drive ratchet requires less turning force on my part for the same bolt. But I always thought that was because the 1/2" ratchet had a longer handle than the 3/8" drive ratchet. Not that the drive size is different. My 1/2" ratchet is probably 50% longer than the 3/8" version.
There’s another effect if the bolt is so tough to turn the extensions flex, but I don’t think that would apply in turning a crank bolt just to turn the crankshaft.
“Also I looked at my car crank bolt - actually there is a dust cover with a hole in it.
Does it make my work hard in any way?”
The hole in the plastic splash shield (you called dust cover) is so you can push a socket and extension through it to turn the crankshaft/hamonic balancer. If you want, you can remove the cover or leave it in place. Your choice.
Am I correct that the bolt that access through the hole on plastic splash shield is the crankshaft?
The bolt I see seems small. The instructions I posted says 19mm?
It should be the crankshaft bolt (aka harmonic balancer bolt) and it should be a 19mm hex. Take a look behind the plastic shield to confirm. There should be no mistaking the bolt since it is smack in the middle of the harmonic balancer/pulley.
I did it today - Bought the part from RockAuto. Wells brand and made in Mexico. (UPDATED)
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The rotor does not have any screw but just slides in - the one came out was tight so I wiggled it right and left as I pull it and it came off (the one that came off is not Acura part as it was purchased in a hurry). But the new part from RockAuto is not that tight (just fit). Is there any issues? Should I reuse the old one or buy a different rotor (from Honda) - how do I tell the old rotor is bad? The metal piece is a bit faded bronze.
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The rotor cap has 2 screws - the bottom screw did not have space to use a screw driver - used a 5mm deep socket and the screw broke. Right now it is only sitting on one screw.
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The RockAuto rotor cap did not come with a Gasket - the old one just disintegrated. I could not find the Gasket anywhere - a guy at eBay sell gaskets for other models said he did not have in stock.
I started the car several times and it runs fine.
What are critical things to fix?
What are good to have fixed?
I would say fixing the broken screw would be critical and finding a gasket would be a really good idea.
Definitely fix the broken screw. The distributor cap may break on the one screw and needs both to stay stable. The gasket would be good, but not critical. I’ve had trouble replacing these on other models with no ill-effects without it.
As for the broken screw . . . try a left handed drill bit, if you’ve got the room
Distributor has to come out as per two m/cs.
When putting back in, the timing needs to be checked again - and the position of the distri needs to be adjusted accordingly.
Online I saw someone recommending to draw a line before removing the distri. Will this save the timing adjustment? I just did the timing belt, water pump - m/c adjusted the timing too. Had I known this, I would have asked the m/c to change the rotor too while he was at it (though it might not have saved on the invoice as cost of repair are incremented).
If I find one in Yunkyard it is about $55.
Shop wants $60 to remove the broken piece but i need to take it off from the car - then timing may or may not be an issue.
Its the length of the handle, not the size of the drive. I have a 3/8" drive breaker bar whose handle is the same length as my 1/2" drive ratchet. The force to remove any given bolt or nut is about the same, but the 1/2" drive ratchet is more comfortable because the handle is thicker and easier to grip.
" …draw a line before removing the distri."
This is always a good idea. I use White-Out, but any mark that shows is OK. You also need to mark the rotor relative to the distributor body so it all goes back in exactly as it came out. If you’re careful, timing should not change. I would reuse your distributor; it’s a known quantity.
- it might be more to do with the relative position of the distri housing to the rest of the engine body; the mounting screw holes are long to adjust the position of the distri housing
- the rotor will only go in a unique way in this car.
Ah, not a gear or spline mesh, but a one-way only spade type…gotcha.
“Its the length of the handle, not the size of the drive”
I respectfully say BOGUS
Tom and Ray would say “BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOGUS!”
Which would you rather use?
10" long 1/2" drive ratchet with a 6" extension and a 13mm socket
10" long" 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6" extension and a 13mm socket
I’m picking the first one
You go ahead and pick the second one
Let me know how it works out for you
10" long 1/2" drive ratchet with a 6" extension and a 13mm socket10" long" 1/4" drive ratchet with a 6" extension and a 13mm socket
The only way the 1/4" drive ratchet wouldn’t exert the same amount of force as the 1/2" ratchet is the 1/4" drive ratchet may be absorbing some of the force by deforming. But if there is no deforming…then the force is exactly the same…it has to be…That can actually be proven pretty easily.
The two ratchets will both exert the exact same force until the 1/4" ratchet starts to deform and eventually break. But until that point…they are EXACTLY the same.
Here’s a link showing the math behind it. Note…that no where in the formula does size of the lever come into play.
http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/torq2.html
Tom and Ray would say "BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOGUS!"
And since Tom and Ray both went to one of the most technical/engineering Universities in the world and both took physics classes there…I’d say they would NOT say it’s bogus.
In any shop environment, ANY AND ALL MECHANICS WOULD PICK OPTION 1
That is a stone cold fact
You guys can argue the physics, match, etc. all you want, but without me
I’m quitting this discussion, because I have nothing left to add
Same as that other discussion about gas prices going up
Even though Rick called it a dead horse, apparently that is in dispute
A 1/2" drive is preferable on something that involves a considerable amount of force to move.
It’s not the ratchet deforming so much as it is the extension and even the socket to a lesser degree.
This is even more noticeable when an extension is used on an air wrench. Size does matter…